Milan Fashion Week Round Up - Moschino

Moschino SS15

It takes a little while to fully grasp Jeremy Scott's collection for Moschino. They're so high on shock value. And at first, one can't help but think, "oh god, these clothes are so trashy". But once you get beyond the initial jolt, loosen up a bit and take a closer look, you realise that fashion shouldn't be taken so seriously. And before you know it, you've succumbed to the hedonist inside of you and hit the "purchase now" button on the Moschino website to pre order parts of this collection so you can have it before anyone else does. I did that right after their Fall show. I was probably the first few to be seen in India with the Moschino French Fry cover.

Moving on, this season, it was the immortal and the epitome of perfection, the Barbie doll that served as inspiration. Various avatars of the Barbie paraded down the runway. The show opened with a Biker Barbie wearing a bright pink jacket resembling the much sought after biker jacket bag with a matching leather skirt. There was cowboy esque Barbie with those boots in bubble gum pink and plastic white followed by vacation Barbie in her shiny zip dress (suitcase in tow) or in an abstract printed top and skirt complete with a yellow camera round her neck. Beach Barbie had a swimsuit pattern stitched on to her dress or came in a terry cloth robe with large inflatable handbags and giant plastic accessories (the oversized, bright pink chain link necklace, sigh). One cannot miss the tongue in cheek Chanel spoofs throughout the show. The quilted leather skirt/shorts suits (resembling Chanel suits), the leather intertwined in chain detailing and the quilting on the bags were so cheeky. Jeremy Scott also continues the Moschino logomania with belts, colourful necklaces and bracelets spelling the label's name.

Every now and then, we need a break from the seriousness that comes with international fashion weeks. It's always about analysing collections and techniques and what not. Just too grim! Jeremy Scott's show put a smile of people's faces. Almost like a breath of fresh air. And that's exactly what it was. Fresh.

Moschino SS15

 

Milan Fashion Week Round Up - Fendi

Fendi SS15

After seeing Fendi's show, I considered selling my car and using all that money to go shop their SS15 collection. Whilst most collections have a combination of hits and misses, at Fendi, there were only hits. Here was a brilliant combination of technique, creativity and beautiful clothes.

Cara Delevingne opened the show in an orchid printed shift dress with strips of matching fabric resembling gashes stitched on to the dress. The orchid motif was seen throughout the show and in various forms. Embroidered on a shaved fur jacket, or on a peek-a-boo bag, printed on a new breed of trousers (they had something like a skirt overlay) or even appliqued on leather like the white dress Malaika Firth was wearing. There were jackets that will make you weep with lust. Beautiful slick leather numbers like the floral appliqued dark grey jacket or a lighter grey with an intricate laser cut geometric pattern all over or the baby blue suede one with architectural bands on the arms and below the bust resembling half a rib cage. You can add those leather tops, that had vertical slits and some artsy print on them, the denim and suede jodhpurs and the skirt made from giant strips of suede to the MOST WANTED list too.

Finally, when it came to the accessories, apart from being a creative genius, Karl knows how to make things that will sell out in minutes. The bag bugs and karlito were prime examples. And so was the Karl Barbie (not Fendi though). On the runway, there were mini versions of the Peek-a-Boo bag, exotic By The Way bags and the coolest, a hybrid between the 2Jours & By The Way. Crocodile leather bangles were on the wrists and orchids with tails adorned the models' hair, whereas teeny tiny Fendi Baguette bag charms decorated the bags.

Not only was the collection aesthetically outstanding, it was also very commercially viable. I guarantee that you will be on the wait list for most of the accessories if not the clothes. Meanwhile, I'm still contemplating selling my car.

Fendi SS15

Fendi SS15 Accessories

Fendi SS15 Bags

 

Milan Fashion Week Round Up - No. 21

No. 21 SS15

At No.21,  a trio of khaki looks belted at the waist opened the show indicating the military trend that started in New York is going strong. Silhouettes were predominantly masculine as was seen with the oversized shirts in organza and shiny macramé. There was also a grunge influence in the collection. Clothes, in a tartan print were crafted out of various fabrics complete with shiny embellishments. A pinafore style midi dress in organza, a boxy shirt cinched with a belt (the fabric looked like wool) and a bralet that closed the show (all in plaid prints) were some of my favourites. A series of clothes made from sheer organza or see through lace induced a seductive feel to the collection. I didn't much care for a bra top that exposed a bit of the nipples. I doubt many would consider wearing that in public unless it's Rihanna. Meanwhile the perforated trousers worn under the top, and a perforated dress in another look rated high on my must have list.

Finally, the shoes, with bows tied on one side; you either loved them or hated them. They were in plain leather or came in Duchesse satin with giant surrealist style embellishments (an eye in one case). With the crazy fashion flock, my instinct says, these will probably sell out. Personally, I'm not sure which side of the continuum I belong to.

No. 21 SS15

 

Milan Fashion Week Round Up - Fausto Puglisi

Fausto Puglisi SS15

Fausto Puglisi's show was one that I was truly looking forward to reviewing from the Milan shows. His SS 14 collection and even his Fall line for that matter left a lasting impression and I was expecting the same for next Spring. However, this time around, I had mixed emotions.

Whilst I loved the geometric prints, there were some looks that had way too much going on. Top to bottom circles and squares, chunky embellishments with bejewelled sliders or studded gladiator sandals in a single look all screamed for attention at the same time. The effect was almost dizzying!But once the excess went away, there was some really good stuff in the collection.

The mixed breed skirts (with pinafore style straps attached from the waist) were rebelliously cool. The zippered gowns especially the white one with beaded holes and a yellow layer underneath and a blue number where the sides of zipper were embellished from top to bottom were so fresh and relaxed. And I absolutely loved the clothes with metallic gold especially the bustier paired with a monochrome skirt, the magnificently cut gold jacket with a matching bottom and the black and gold printed skirt worn under an orange bra top. Apart from geometric prints dominating most of the show, a lot of the looks had holes cut into the fabric (resembling the cheese you see in cartoons) out of which a leather top worn over a colour blocked mini skirt was a favourite.

Personally, I'm a huge fan of Puglisi's aesthetic and admire his rebellious/punk streak paired with a little Gianni Versace style bling. With Anna Dello Russo as an ardent supporter, one can only expect great things from the designer. Lets hope for his next collection, he eliminates a little bit of the excess he used this time. Then, I'm sure it will be a flawless one!

Fausto Puglisi SS15

 

Milan Fashion Week Round Up - Gucci

Gucci SS15

It was hard to pick a theme at Gucci. Was it nautical, oriental, retro glam, or a bit of everything perhaps? All I know is that it was not just good, it was amazing. The jackets and vests in my opinion stole the show. Vests were made from colourful Mongolian lamb or fox whereas shorter jackets were seen with 3D embellishments and python skin paired with the fur. One could not miss the sheer beauty of a nautical inspired number complete with gold stripes and buttons on the sleeves. Or the couture like craftsmanship on a patchwork jacket crafted out of fur, python skin and Japanese silk. I wonder if Roohi Jaikishan will be the first one in India to be seen in that patchwork jacket.

Daytime/casual silhouettes included cropped, relaxed fit jeans along with a variety of cool girl dresses which are without a doubt going to be a major hit. From the denim series, a slick A-line ensemble  with large gold buttons and a woven leather belt rated high on my must have list and so did a bicolour shirtdress featuring yellow top stitching and crochet style emboridery on the sleeves and bust. Oversized lace up closure detailing was seen throughout out the show, with my favourites being a dark green nappa leather dress and another in red cotton voile, both featuring broderie anglaise on the sleeves and skirt. For evening wear, hemlines were shortened to knee length with oriental inspired embroidery and sparkling crystal trimmings.

For next spring, the bucket version of the Jackie Soft seen in the show was honestly to die for. Bucket bags are so hot right now and the colours that Gucci has are delicious especially the burnt orange one in suede. Juxtaposing a large canvas shoulder strap against luxurious leather was an interesting contrast and one that I really liked.

Gucci SS15

Detailing on the patchwork jacket

Jackie Soft Bucket Bag

 

London Fashion Week Round Up - Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane SS15

‘It was understated Kane’ was the impression left at Christopher Kane’s for Spring Summer 2015. The context of understatement here found its heart in his attempt to pay homage to Professor Louise Wilson of Central Saint Martins (owing to her demise recently).  It was a balancing act for Kane wherein he tried to live up to the beloved teacher’s idea of his style and finding his own voice from within that idea. That’s earnest belief. The idea: a refined and sophisticated modus operandi, that the designer made his own with his singular treatments.

The results, put on display, were cleaner palettes of red, black and some mauve and refined silhouettes consisting of fine cut trousers, structured tops and dresses, and interspersion of sheer with varying patterns. But Kane’s imprints were all over them in the form of blown up patterns and ropes that weaved through the outfits (the oxblood tulle dress where they crept up like snakes) and at times binding them together like in the case of a sheer shirt where they were left dangling from the edges. The ropes again were an extension of his experiments from his fledgling days in fashion at Central Saint Martins.

Tulle peeking out from unexpected places like conical folds on either sides of a dress or a skirt for example was both playful and a creative. Meanwhile, those soft and boxy bags look like they're going to sell out as soon as they hit the stores. Overall, a rather restrained but extremely pleasing offering from Christopher Kane.

Christopher Kane SS15

 

London Fashion Week Round Up - Erdem, Mary Katrantzou

Erdem SS15

Erdem - It's a jungle out there! Out there meaning high fashion of course and in the mind of Erdem. This time, the designer turned to Victorian biologist and botanical artist Marianne North for inspiration and the collection was mind blowing to say the least. Where on the one hand there were fronds (creeping up the body kinds) embroidered on dresses, on the other, there were turquoise and bottle green florals that decorated Victorian style floor length gowns. Meanwhile, Erdem's obsession with feathers was reiterated though a magnificent, dark green coat bursting with plumage (also seen a few days later on Jane Keltner de Valle) and a series of dresses covered in feathers. . A high necked blouse featuring the most intricate hand work of feathers, embroidery and small chiffon patches carved into floral shapes made me feel like this was work commissioned to the atelier of Maison Lemarie. Anna Dello Russo wore the top with the matching skirt for the Dior show in Paris.

There was drama in this collection, but none of it was excess. Perhaps the matronly like, yet sexy broderie anglaise ensembles or the simple tweed dress balanced the rest of the collection. Whatever the case, Erdem was the king of this jungle.

Erdem SS15

Mary Katrantzou - Ancient history... Prehistoric times... Nope. How about Pangea, a supercontinent from the late Paleozoic era! An extremely interesting and unique inspiration for Mary Katrantzou's latest collection. The queen of digital prints has been experimenting with more complex garment construction, playing with various textures and some intricate embroidery and it has paid off big time. This was another spectacular delivery from the London runways.

Medusa's hair like serpents, and shiny cut outs representing the earth's tectonic plates were amongst the key details seen on the clothes. A series of dresses caught my eye especially the ones with delicate snakes intertwined in one another on the bust and a honeycomb like cage below along with the shirt dresses covered in flora and fauna embroidery. A beaded black dress featuring some sort of strange creature embroidered on it was one of the coolest outfits in the show. Embellished sculptural blouses with linear cut outs worn over loose fitted trousers felt fresh and glamorous just like the semi-sheer gowns that closed the show.



Mary Katrantzou SS15

Mary Katrantzou SS15