The Lightness Of Modern Day Haute Couture

Haute couture has long been associated with flamboyance and Cinderella style ball gowns that are filled with never ending layers of tulle and are extremely uncomfortable to wear. However, the SS 14 couture collections presented last week gave us a new meaning to couture. Most of the designers featured garments that were extremely wearable despite thousands of hours of craftsmanship involved in creating them. 

Let’s start with the Valentino collection. A very light and breezy gown opened the show with musical notes that took 1600 hours of embroidery. But from far, it actually looked like the notes were printed, so you can only imagine how light the gown must have felt when Katy Perry wore it to the Grammy's.  Next, were these ethereal ballerina tutu style dresses in which one of them had a snake made out of feathers that slithered from the shoulder, wrapped itself around the waist thrice and made its way towards the thigh. I wonder how many hours that must have taken?!

 

Moving on to Dior, as I mentioned in my previous post, this was yet another collection that looked light as air, but at the same time was one of the most labour intensive ones produced by the couture house. The minimalist aesthetic was a strong one here, but there was intricate hand embroidery done in almost every garment you saw on the runway. We also saw the new couture jumpsuit and jumpsuits have always been so casual. But, in this new era of couture, women are no longer required to be uncomfortable in their clothes. Women today don't spend their day playing dress up. Time is of the essence. Even an haute couture client who may be hosting a benefit has to walk around and mingle with her guests. If she wears a dress that weighs heavier than her, how on earth can she walk around?

At Chanel, the sportswear movement was prevalent throughout. There were sporty skirts and boxy crop tops with fitted corsets underneath. Not the kind of corsets that leave you gasping for air, but the kind that you actually run around in. Then there were cycling shorts that had sequins and little motifs embroidered on them just like the flirty, dropped waist, lightweight dresses. Silhouettes with feather seemed light as air as did the wedding dress that closed the show. We Indians are so used to wearing lehengas that weigh ten kilos, its refreshing to see minimalism enter bridal wear.

The collection plays tricks with your eyes! As someone who sees the shows on style.com all I see is light garments that shimmer as the model moves and sometimes when I zoom in I get to see a little bit of the detailing. Its only when I researched further, did I find out the iridescent effect of every garment came from the hundreds of tiny sequins that were stitched on to the fabric. That was what mesmerised me the most, that some of the work was so subtle, you only realise it when you close up images.

Another much talked about collection was that of Viktor & Rolf for using latex to create the garments. The nude coloured dresses were almost like second skin and sometimes it was hard to differentiate! A dress that was made from folds of latex had a hand painted bird that looked like it was holding the folds. The entire collection was extremely light, and the hand painted birds, ruffles and bows that were used for the detailing were my favourite. Even though this seemed more of a promotional activity for their new perfume, the clothes definitely were in sync with the era of modernised haute couture.

While most of Alexandre Vauthier's collection was quite sensual with the braided leather skirts and chokers with spikes, however, there was an element of lightness in some silhouettes. In particular, a shirt dress, that was reinterpreted in satin by dropping the hemline all the way to the ankle and a slit that was thigh high. Perfect for a girl who lives by the 'I don't give a shit' mantra but loves her couture too.

Footwear too played an important role in these shows. At Schiaparelli, there were flats with crocodile leather straps and plumes used to decorate them. Viktor & Rolf used ballerina shoes. Dior and Chanel had the couture sneakers. The flat shoes symbolise liberation. Enough of the six inch high heel drama. Make way for flats people!



Dior sneakers



Chanel sneakers that can cost up to 3,000 Euros



Schiaparelli flats

The clothes and footwear in last week's shows send a strong message. No longer do women have to be uncomfortable to be fashionable. Not in footwear and not in couture. It is truly a new era of high fashion.

Christian Dior SS 14 Haute Couture - Entering A New Era Of Couture

Light and airy… those were my first words to my fabulous friends at Dior PR when I emailed them as I was watching the show. Raf Simons has set the bar for what modern day couture should look like. It was all about understanding today’s woman and the fast paced life she lives.

At a glance you might think, oh well that didn’t look like a collection that would take hours of craftsmanship due to the minimalist aesthetic. That is far from the truth. Cut work detailing was key to this collection. Almost every look  had small cut outs playing peek-a-boo with either skin, more delicate cut outs or intricate embroidery behind the layer. There were small three dimensional flowers or stems stitched on to the dresses that were jutting out which was a fine play of textures.

An ink blue skater skirt with a matching silk top in particular caught my eye. There were a million leaves (at least that’s what it looked like to me) that were sewn on to form flowers around a print of a woman standing on a rock. And if you pay close attention, some of the blue leaves were even painted white on the edge to add extra detailing….poetic. A strapless gown (I’m hoping to see it at the Oscar’s or perhaps even a big fat Indian wedding sangeet) with an overlay of cut out fabric resembling a honeycomb had another white layer attached on to the waist with white punched holes that shimmered as the model walked. Shimmered, because every bit of the fabric was covered in embroidery that only the finest hands in Paris can do. A white strapless mini dress with exaggerated peplums where the holes gave way to many tiny colourful flowers. There were even jumpsuits in this new era of couture!

Moving on to jewellery, Raf used merely a single chain with a pretty bow that grazed the collarbone evoking sensuality. Its not always about the bling or dripping in diamonds. It’s all about elegance and that can come with a simple chain too, just depends on the attitude.

I’m saving the best part for the last, which were (I’m sure you’re thinking when is she going to talk about THAT!) the sneakers. Yes sneakers at Dior Haute Couture for the first time ever. Only proving that Raf understands today’s woman so intimately. Imagine a girl at her cotillion who has just danced with her blue blooded partner and has an after party to attend. What does she do? She puts on her dancing shoes… her couture trainers.

Raf is always ahead of the game. Making couture more comfortable, wearable and effortless despite being one of the most labour intensive collections produced by the couture house; GENIUS.

Please enjoy some photos from the collection below or click here to see the entire show.

Image Courtesy: Christian Dior



Favourite Look



Favourite Look - Notice the sneakers

Favourite Look

Le Mill Is Coming To Delhi - More Reasons To Rejoice

Okay all my fabulous Dilliwallas! I've got good news for all of you. I have just been informed that Le Mill is having a pop up shop in our very own city! Between the 23rd and 25th January, head over to 125/126 Meherchand Market, 1st Floor to check out the merchandise. The FW 13 stuff is going to be at 50 per cent off and older merchandise is at 70 per cent off.

Oh man, I've been dying to buy a Peter Pilotto skirt and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I get my hands on one this week. I also feel the sudden need to buy another Alexander Wang bag. Don't ask me why. I just bought the Victoria Beckham clutch I featured in a previous post and trust me I should NOT be shopping. But when such temptations are within the realms of your own home, I guess I should just give in and do what the voices in my head say.. they eerily whisper .."go shopping Hanadi, you NEED new stuff". Apart from the bag obsession that I have, I'm thinking of focussing on ready to wear items when I visit their pop up shop. I have, off late developed a strong liking for Mary Katarantzou dresses. Plus there was this SS 13 blazer from Joseph that I had seen in London and was stupid enough not to buy it so I'm like really really hoping I find that in their older merchandise. Can you think of a better way to end a bitterly cold January?

Okay enough of what I plan on buying? What will you have your eyes on at the sale? DON'T forget, 23rd to 25th January. Happy shopping people!

XoXo
Me

Why I'm LOVING Le Mill India! (Pardon me for not having discovered it sooner)

We Indians are big fans of luxury designers and love nothing more than to put on our best outfits paired with fabulous accessories and head out to socialise. However, at some point, due the lack of variety with International brands things started getting a little saturated here. It was only the usual Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Chanel that we would end up seeing on people and quite frankly it tires the eyes out. Not to say I don’t adore these brands, in fact, I am a loyal Gucci fan and Chanel, well if you’ve been reading my previous posts, you’ll know that I am currently saving for another 2.55 bag. But beyond a certain point, you want to see other fun brands in the fashion circuit, like an Alexander Wang Pelican bag or maybe a super fun Jason Wu clutch.

I recently heard about a Mumbai based multi-designer boutique, Le Mill. Yes I know you’re probably like raising an eye brow, thinking ‘WHAT, you JUST heard about it??’ Hey, better late than never right? This new, albeit a late discovery has got me extremely excited. They also have an e-commerce site to make their goods available all over India, which is fantastic since I live in Delhi. I went through every product on their website to check out their merchandise and I have to say I am so impressed. I wanted to see how competitive their prices were as it just makes my life easier if I can buy these brands in India itself, so I decided to compare the prices that they are selling their stuff at with international e-commerce sites.


The Le Mill boutique in Mumbai

First up in my comparison list was the Proenza Schouler PS1 leather Ipad case on the Le Mill site which retails at INR 37000. A similar leather Ipad case on net-a-porter was working out to be INR 46,415 and that’s if I choose to deliver it to Dubai. For some reason when I clicked ship to India the ipad case wouldn’t show up. Ordering it to India anyways would be more expensive as duties are higher. So for a similar ipad clutch which differs only very slightly in dimensions (on Le Mill it’s 11x8.5 and net-a-porter its 11x9), surprisingly, it’s cheaper in India! Granted that colourful Ipad cases are last season as they recently went on sale everywhere, however, I checked the Barney’s sale price and it was 24,000 INR not inclusive of shipping and duties which pretty much works out to be the same price eventually.
Next up was the Alexander Wang IT bag, the Rocco. The Rocco Black Dumbo retails with Le Mill for INR 50,450 and when I checked the retail price on the Alexander Wang website (I made sure I checked the dimensions and all) the price was INR 56,983 and this doesn’t include the US city taxes if you were to buy it there itself or duties if you were to order it online from an e-commerce site. I had featured an orange Rocco that was on sale on My Theresa for a previous post where the sale price was INR 37952 again, not inclusive of duties or shipping.

Reese Witherspoon with the Rocco bag

Rihanna with the Rocco bag

Moving on, my next item was the Peter Pilotto Abbey top. It retails at Le Mill for INR 67,650 and for INR 68,256 at net-a-porter which is pretty much the same price as the net-a-porter price is inclusive of duties. However, at least when you order it from Le Mill, and the top doesn’t fit you get the ‘free returns in India’ option which honestly is very important. My mom ordered a pair of Salvatore Ferragamo shoes from Saks Fifth Avenue which didn’t fit very well and for her to send it back meant losing out on roughly 200 dollars!

After careful research on these items (there were more I researched on but I wont bore you with my in depth analysis), I am now more excited than ever to start shopping from this fabulous boutique and their online site. And other than the prices, the list of designers they stock is amazing! Isabel Marant (yes, they have the absolutely MUST HAVE Bekett sneakers), and even Shourouk!! Funnily I just spoke about Shourouk in a previous post and I find out the brand is available on home turf. The Row, Pamela Love and even Alexander Wang’s diffusion line T by Alexander Wang; Le Mill is now a part of my internet explorer favourites.

Anna Dello Russo wearing a Shourouk necklace

Gisele Bundchen in the Isabel Marant Bekett sneakers

Seriously I want to hit myself on the head because I was in Mumbai last week and I never went to the boutique! It’s all good, when I spend two months there during April and May, I know exactly where I’ll be lingering.

40 Years of Diane Von Furstenberg's Iconic Wrap Dress

Every great fashion designer brings a unique thumbprint that sets them apart from their contemporaries. For Christian Dior it is the BAR jacket, for Yves Saint Laurent it is the Le Smoking tuxedo, and for Diane Von Furstenberg--the renaissance woman as we like to call her--it was the wrap dress that she introduced in the early 70s.
 

In order to celebrate 40 years of the success of this iconic style, the designer and her team put together a stunning exhibit. The exhibit, Journey of a Dress, is on display at the Wilshire May Co. building in Los Angeles till April 1^st . "She made me famous. She paid for all my bills. And tonight we celebrate the wrap dress," DVF mused at the opening.

 

A former princess, she decided to start her own business after marrying a prince simply because she didn’t want to be sitting at home playing the role defined for her. Obviously, her creative juices incited her to step into the world of fashion design, and now DVF is a name as legendary as any in the design circuit.

 

After seeing Julie Eisenhower on television wearing one of her own wrap top and wrap skirt (inspired by silk wrap separates worn by ballet dancers), the designer decided to create an entire wrap dress. Made out of cotton-jersey, the dress couldn’t have been created at a better time. With the women’s liberation in full force, gone were the days where they had to stuff themselves into restrained garments or anything that was portrayed as a symbol of oppression.

So popular was this simple creation, that the designer sold five millions dresses from 1973 to 1976. A dress that is so easy to put on, and that literally takes the shape of your body stays true to the slogan ‘Feel like a woman, Wear a dress’ used in her first advertisement. The dresses were not only easy to wear but were also fun through the use of vibrant prints--that being another one of her signatures.



The first DVF advertisement

It’s a dress that can be seen on a working mum or an A-list celebrity. A dress that proved to the world that fashion isn’t always associated with uncomfortable dressing. A dress that is feminine and sexy in every possible way.

I too am a great fan of the wrap and am fortunate enough to have collected quite a few of them in the past few years. Anytime I have a social event or a luncheon to attend and don’t feel like wearing something that restricts my movement I pick out one of my DVF wraps and I’m good to go. There’s nothing sexier than a dress that shows just the right amount of cleavage and a glimpse of a woman’s thigh at times. Feminine and fabulous, a wrap dress is a must have in a girl’s closet. Also, unlike other designer dresses, this won’t set you back thousands of dollars.

 



One of my favourite wraps



My other favourite wrap

The exhibit showcases Von Furstenberg’s favourite dresses from years gone by. Two hundred customised Ralph Pucci mannequins (they all have Diane’s cheekbones) are seen in different variations of the timeless wrap dresses, some of which date back to the 1970’s and you can even see the original sample. The dresses have not only been famous for liberating women but also for their eclectic prints. Leopard, python, geometric and even art; prints are a major part of their DNA.

 

Moving on from the mannequins, there are nostalgic photos of the designer’s first advertisement along with other ads, fashion shows, celebrities wearing the dresses in movies (think Cybil Shepherd in Taxi Driver), and even of Michelle Obama in her signature creation. There is also a letter from the legendary editor of Harper’s Bazaar, Diana Vreeland who told her that she thought her clothes were smashing! Now, if only I was in LA to see the exhibit.

 

In the last few years, I have noticed an increasing number of Bollywood celebrities and Indian fashion lovers sporting DVF dresses which is fantastic. It's great to know that her fan following has reached India. I love that the designer has entered the Indian market by making her clothes exclusively available at Kitsch. From Priyanka Chopra to Deepika Padukone and Lisa Hayden, all of them have been seen in her designs. Now that’s really a WRAP.

 

Deepika Padukone in DVF

Lisa Hayden in DVF

Sonakshi Sinha in DVF

 

 

Starry Night at Kitsch - A Sneak Preview Of Whats Going To Be On Sale At The Kitsch Boutique

In case you are still hesitant to shop your favourite designers online, well, worry not, Kitsch is going on sale! YAY!! This is by far my favourite multi designer boutique in Delhi. It has all my cherished designers. From Victoria Beckham to Stella McCartney to Alexander McQueen; I totally heart Kitsch. So make sure you visit the Defence Colony boutique on the 9th January 2014 to check out what's on sale. If you can't wait to find out, here is a sneak preview of 4 of my favourite items that are going to be discounted.

Stella McCartney Falabella fold over shoulder bag - I love this version of the designer's most famed Falabella bags which have become a real must have in a bag lover's closet. The Falabella is also a darling amongst the celebrities. Everyone from Kim Kardashian to Anne Hathaway have been seen holding the bigger version of this bag. If the original design is too big for you, opt for this small shoulder bag which is going to be on sale on the 9th January. Wear during a daytime luncheon or after hours at night; its a versatile little monster.

Rachel Roy sheath dress -  I'm loving the bright green colour on this dress. Perfect for the summer that is approaching in a few months. I know it's still far but hey, I'm all up for buying it on sale now even if I have to wear it a few months later. After all, it is a Rachel Roy dress.

Saint Laurent Paris Tribute Sandals - Do I even need to begin an intro for these almost iconic sandals? Worn by pretty much every celebrity and supermodel, when these babies go on sale, buy them. PERIOD.

Chloe Marcie bag - This is one of the classics from the house of Chloe which never ever goes out of style and enjoys a cult like following. I love the details on this bag especially the whip stitching on the front along with the gold hardware. Another thing I absolutely love about the bag is that its virtually logo free, or well, its not in your face.

With that being said, hope you have a fabulous starry night shopping at Kitsch!!

XOXO,
Me
 

For Those Frugal Days - Designer buys for under 20,000 Indian Rupees

So you all have shopped and shopped over the holidays in India, abroad and online and now you're broke. So what, we all go through our broke days. I am perpetually going through those as some stupid bag or the other uses up most of my savings so there's only so much leftover to buy all the other stuff I'm lusting after. We all have frugal phases in life so here's a post for all my lovelies with limited funds to pay for all the designer goodies we love so much.

With Matches Fashion and Net-A-Porter, the prices displayed are inclusive of duties and taxes and shipping is relatively cheap too (20 pounds at matches and 15 dollars with net-a-porter). However, from MyTheresa, prices are not inclusive of duties and shipping is about 69 Euros which is slightly pricey but trust me if I've featured the product it means its a real must have and is NOT available in Delhi and is likely to also sell out soon. So take a call accordingly my loves.

Here are my favourite items under 20,000 INR.

Alexander McQueen skull charm leather belt - For those of you who have been really lusting after a McQueen belt, now's your chance. At fifty per cent off, I couldn't ask for more. Use this belt to cinch your dress or simply to accessorise your jeans; an Alexander McQueen belt is the perfect accessory. Click here to purchase.

Alexander McQueen De Manta leather cosmetics bag - As you all know, just recently I invested in a De Manta clutch and I couldn't be happier. I love the shape of the De Manta and what I am loving even more is that they even have a cosmetics bag in this model. Now even my make up can travel or lay around my bathroom in style. A McQueen make up bag for 10,810 rupees and that too in leather, I mean really, I would be a fool not to buy this. Click here to purchase.

Valentino rockstud leather Iphone case - If you have been dying to own a Valentino Rockstud product but have been too broke to buy it, now is your chance! This series is highly coveted and even the iphone case makes a strong style statement. I adore the powder pink leather. So girly. Click here to purchase.

Agnelle moka ponyskin and leather gloves - Okay so the temperatures here in Delhi are taking a serious nosedive and my fingerless gloves do me no good when I'm out at night. ENTER, these super fun, printed gloves. Made from a combination of lambskin and calfskin with a 100 per cent cashmere lining, these gorgeous babies are not only stylish but functional too. For 7,000 rupees, these are definitely value for money. The leather exterior and cashmere lining are definitely going to keep your hands warm. Click here to purchase.

Sophia Webster amber plaid high-heel pumps - Sophia Webster is one of the hottest shoe designers these days and has taken the fashion world by a storm with her designs. I love the cheeky twist on the classic plaid on this particular pair and the ball embellishments are just so fun. The heel is just beyond sexy too. A pair of Sophia Webster shoes would be an important addition to your shoe closet and I suggest you order them soon as the sizes are selling out like hot cakes. Click here to purchase.

Dolce & Gabbana belucci velvet pumps - I have been looking for that perfect pair of simple black pumps which aren't too expensive and now I have found them. They are simple but versatile enough to pair with a lot of outfits and are sexy too. Click here to purchase.

Shourouk Atari embellished cuff - Parisian designer, Shourouk Rhaiem is one of the most sought after jewellery designers today, so you need to add this name to your designer dictionary like ASAP. What I love most about Shourouk jewellery is the eye catching colour combinations used. Take this cuff for example, don't you just love the contrasting shades of purple and pink Swarovski crystals? The cuff stays true to the designer's motto of "luxury and decadence". Click here to purchase.

Oscar De La Renta gold plated cabochon earrings - For the last few seasons I have become a huge fan of the designer's cabochon earrings. The fact that they're on 70 per cent off doesn't hurt either. The size paired with the green colour make it a statement accessory. Tie your hair up in a chic pony  tail for maximum impact. Click here to purchase.