Milan Fashion Week Round Up - No. 21

No. 21 SS15

At No.21,  a trio of khaki looks belted at the waist opened the show indicating the military trend that started in New York is going strong. Silhouettes were predominantly masculine as was seen with the oversized shirts in organza and shiny macramé. There was also a grunge influence in the collection. Clothes, in a tartan print were crafted out of various fabrics complete with shiny embellishments. A pinafore style midi dress in organza, a boxy shirt cinched with a belt (the fabric looked like wool) and a bralet that closed the show (all in plaid prints) were some of my favourites. A series of clothes made from sheer organza or see through lace induced a seductive feel to the collection. I didn't much care for a bra top that exposed a bit of the nipples. I doubt many would consider wearing that in public unless it's Rihanna. Meanwhile the perforated trousers worn under the top, and a perforated dress in another look rated high on my must have list.

Finally, the shoes, with bows tied on one side; you either loved them or hated them. They were in plain leather or came in Duchesse satin with giant surrealist style embellishments (an eye in one case). With the crazy fashion flock, my instinct says, these will probably sell out. Personally, I'm not sure which side of the continuum I belong to.

No. 21 SS15

 

Milan Fashion Week Round Up - Fausto Puglisi

Fausto Puglisi SS15

Fausto Puglisi's show was one that I was truly looking forward to reviewing from the Milan shows. His SS 14 collection and even his Fall line for that matter left a lasting impression and I was expecting the same for next Spring. However, this time around, I had mixed emotions.

Whilst I loved the geometric prints, there were some looks that had way too much going on. Top to bottom circles and squares, chunky embellishments with bejewelled sliders or studded gladiator sandals in a single look all screamed for attention at the same time. The effect was almost dizzying!But once the excess went away, there was some really good stuff in the collection.

The mixed breed skirts (with pinafore style straps attached from the waist) were rebelliously cool. The zippered gowns especially the white one with beaded holes and a yellow layer underneath and a blue number where the sides of zipper were embellished from top to bottom were so fresh and relaxed. And I absolutely loved the clothes with metallic gold especially the bustier paired with a monochrome skirt, the magnificently cut gold jacket with a matching bottom and the black and gold printed skirt worn under an orange bra top. Apart from geometric prints dominating most of the show, a lot of the looks had holes cut into the fabric (resembling the cheese you see in cartoons) out of which a leather top worn over a colour blocked mini skirt was a favourite.

Personally, I'm a huge fan of Puglisi's aesthetic and admire his rebellious/punk streak paired with a little Gianni Versace style bling. With Anna Dello Russo as an ardent supporter, one can only expect great things from the designer. Lets hope for his next collection, he eliminates a little bit of the excess he used this time. Then, I'm sure it will be a flawless one!

Fausto Puglisi SS15

 

Milan Fashion Week Round Up - Gucci

Gucci SS15

It was hard to pick a theme at Gucci. Was it nautical, oriental, retro glam, or a bit of everything perhaps? All I know is that it was not just good, it was amazing. The jackets and vests in my opinion stole the show. Vests were made from colourful Mongolian lamb or fox whereas shorter jackets were seen with 3D embellishments and python skin paired with the fur. One could not miss the sheer beauty of a nautical inspired number complete with gold stripes and buttons on the sleeves. Or the couture like craftsmanship on a patchwork jacket crafted out of fur, python skin and Japanese silk. I wonder if Roohi Jaikishan will be the first one in India to be seen in that patchwork jacket.

Daytime/casual silhouettes included cropped, relaxed fit jeans along with a variety of cool girl dresses which are without a doubt going to be a major hit. From the denim series, a slick A-line ensemble  with large gold buttons and a woven leather belt rated high on my must have list and so did a bicolour shirtdress featuring yellow top stitching and crochet style emboridery on the sleeves and bust. Oversized lace up closure detailing was seen throughout out the show, with my favourites being a dark green nappa leather dress and another in red cotton voile, both featuring broderie anglaise on the sleeves and skirt. For evening wear, hemlines were shortened to knee length with oriental inspired embroidery and sparkling crystal trimmings.

For next spring, the bucket version of the Jackie Soft seen in the show was honestly to die for. Bucket bags are so hot right now and the colours that Gucci has are delicious especially the burnt orange one in suede. Juxtaposing a large canvas shoulder strap against luxurious leather was an interesting contrast and one that I really liked.

Gucci SS15

Detailing on the patchwork jacket

Jackie Soft Bucket Bag

 

London Fashion Week Round Up - Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane SS15

‘It was understated Kane’ was the impression left at Christopher Kane’s for Spring Summer 2015. The context of understatement here found its heart in his attempt to pay homage to Professor Louise Wilson of Central Saint Martins (owing to her demise recently).  It was a balancing act for Kane wherein he tried to live up to the beloved teacher’s idea of his style and finding his own voice from within that idea. That’s earnest belief. The idea: a refined and sophisticated modus operandi, that the designer made his own with his singular treatments.

The results, put on display, were cleaner palettes of red, black and some mauve and refined silhouettes consisting of fine cut trousers, structured tops and dresses, and interspersion of sheer with varying patterns. But Kane’s imprints were all over them in the form of blown up patterns and ropes that weaved through the outfits (the oxblood tulle dress where they crept up like snakes) and at times binding them together like in the case of a sheer shirt where they were left dangling from the edges. The ropes again were an extension of his experiments from his fledgling days in fashion at Central Saint Martins.

Tulle peeking out from unexpected places like conical folds on either sides of a dress or a skirt for example was both playful and a creative. Meanwhile, those soft and boxy bags look like they're going to sell out as soon as they hit the stores. Overall, a rather restrained but extremely pleasing offering from Christopher Kane.

Christopher Kane SS15

 

London Fashion Week Round Up - Erdem, Mary Katrantzou

Erdem SS15

Erdem - It's a jungle out there! Out there meaning high fashion of course and in the mind of Erdem. This time, the designer turned to Victorian biologist and botanical artist Marianne North for inspiration and the collection was mind blowing to say the least. Where on the one hand there were fronds (creeping up the body kinds) embroidered on dresses, on the other, there were turquoise and bottle green florals that decorated Victorian style floor length gowns. Meanwhile, Erdem's obsession with feathers was reiterated though a magnificent, dark green coat bursting with plumage (also seen a few days later on Jane Keltner de Valle) and a series of dresses covered in feathers. . A high necked blouse featuring the most intricate hand work of feathers, embroidery and small chiffon patches carved into floral shapes made me feel like this was work commissioned to the atelier of Maison Lemarie. Anna Dello Russo wore the top with the matching skirt for the Dior show in Paris.

There was drama in this collection, but none of it was excess. Perhaps the matronly like, yet sexy broderie anglaise ensembles or the simple tweed dress balanced the rest of the collection. Whatever the case, Erdem was the king of this jungle.

Erdem SS15

Mary Katrantzou - Ancient history... Prehistoric times... Nope. How about Pangea, a supercontinent from the late Paleozoic era! An extremely interesting and unique inspiration for Mary Katrantzou's latest collection. The queen of digital prints has been experimenting with more complex garment construction, playing with various textures and some intricate embroidery and it has paid off big time. This was another spectacular delivery from the London runways.

Medusa's hair like serpents, and shiny cut outs representing the earth's tectonic plates were amongst the key details seen on the clothes. A series of dresses caught my eye especially the ones with delicate snakes intertwined in one another on the bust and a honeycomb like cage below along with the shirt dresses covered in flora and fauna embroidery. A beaded black dress featuring some sort of strange creature embroidered on it was one of the coolest outfits in the show. Embellished sculptural blouses with linear cut outs worn over loose fitted trousers felt fresh and glamorous just like the semi-sheer gowns that closed the show.



Mary Katrantzou SS15

Mary Katrantzou SS15

 

Diwali Essentials - Jewellery

In the midst of international fashion weeks or fashion month rather, it totally slipped my mind that Diwali is not too far away. The festive season brings in endless tash parties, karvachauth, some weddings and of course, the ultimate, Diwali. All these celebrations mean one thing, SHOPPING!!

In my first Diwali essentials post, I want to feature some fabulous jewellery I stumbled upon just a few days ago. The brand, Diamond Polki by SSJ have just released a fabulous new collection, Jashn-E-Moghul reminiscent of the flamboyant Mughal era. Every piece from this collection is not only luxurious but features superior craftsmanship and only the highest quality of jewels are used to make them. Whether you choose their "Be Queened" necklace or their Moghul Jhumkas, don't be surprised if these spectacular jewels become the conversation starter at parties! I'm attaching some photos of the stuff I loved from their collection.

P.S, Don't worry I will be doing a handbag post soon!!

 

 

The address for their boutique is as follows:

 

S-2, Rajkamal Chamber, Bank Street, Karolbagh, New Delhi

 

London Fashion Week Round Up - Tom Ford

Tom Ford SS15

Ease superimposed with sexiness, pushing both to the edge at times represents the Tom Ford woman for the spring of 2015. The effortless attitude was palpable in the shaggy hair and the smudged mascara and the flared pants a bit evocative of the 70’s. But on second thoughts maybe the ease was just another component of the fierce and glamorous woman who likes to play it a bit rough. The shimmering tones of gold, emerald and black, the leopard imprints on the shoes and body hugging constructions were all out there. The short lengths and the pasties just stepped it up more than a notch. Blazers and pants inset with sheer meant business. The full-sleeved emerald top paired with the flared pants called for attention the most in my opinion- the garb was a perfect encapsulation of a super-chic languid glamour. The White gown that followed down the pasties on Binx Walton stood out, for reasons pertaining more to Walton herself than the striking white on her. Most designers have been working with the ongoing sporty trend, meanwhile, Ford really couldn't give a crap.

Tom Ford SS15