New York Fashion Week Round Up - Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs SS 15

Military seems to be marching through fashion week and rendered in ways that one can't even begin to imagine! Military spliced with a couture treatment, a concept just like the case of sports couture that has prevailed in the last few seasons has become a major trend this fashion week. The baggy silhouettes had form and appeal, the fine constructions dwelling within the heavy silhouette. Albeit the palette was spot on military, but there was also a vivid juxtaposition in the Pink set that Jacobs fashioned to stage the collection. Cargo Pants and jackets, skirts long or short and flared along with dresses cinched at the waist with the aid of belts, were the primary silhouettes.

Everything was in line with the theme and with reasonable subtlety till this point; enter Marc-ibilities (it could be Marc’s sensibility or the ingenious lack of it). The fabrics got shinier shifting from cotton to silk duchesse, buttons and the patch pockets bigger and more scattered and so did the flowery motif.  For the woman who can't associate with the whole military theme, there were straight cut dresses embellished with giant cabochons and sparkly buttons. And favourites but not standouts, if they have to pointed out: A lax kimono-esque pullover paired with cargo pants where the ease of the silhouette seamlessly transcended to instant likeability for the wearer.  There was the also the cropped top and long skirt combo, again, stamped likeable for the balance the comfortable skirt imparted to the cropped accompaniments. All the while, these clothes were paired with Dr. Scholl's sandals, guaranteed to be on the fashion flock's feet come next summer.

Bag lovers can rejoice because, there are going to be some crazy Marc Jacobs bags to choose from. Structured, rectangular and square shaped colour blocked shoulder bags with name tags and all (some can be used a small sling bag too), utilitarian style soft and silky cross bodies, totes and backpack bags with cabochons and lets not forget the super luxurious oversized crocodile hobo that comes with a matching croco name tag.

It was a collection of contrasts. Rough and delicate, singular and likeable, and all so quintessentially Marc.

Marc Jacobs SS 15

Marc Jacobs SS 15 Bags

Marc Jacobs SS 15 Bags

 

New York Fashion Week Round Up - Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta SS 15

At Oscar de la Renta, models floated down the runway to western classical music in the prettiest of clothes. A pink gingham coat and a blue checked midriff baring top paired with a matching skirt were amongst my favourites from the opening looks. Flowers were very significant to the collection. There were tulips pasted on dresses, shirts and even seen embroidered on a fur coat. The pastel pink dress with a tulip on the white lapel and the baby blue ball gown with silver tulips were just heavenly. There were other colourful blooms  stitched on everything from organza to a crochet dress to a gorgeous white coat. Although, being partial to blue, I have to say, the blue coat bursting with flowers was just divine.

Whilst the collection may have been very feminine, the designer ensured he also made it extremely sexy. Laser cut skirts and dresses playing peek-a-boo with skin were graceful and sensual at the same time. Clothes with broderie anglaise had the same effect. Case in point: A white maxi dress (cinched with a silver belt) with eyelets and holes cut out all over. Feathers also made their way into the clothes. Either used in abundance to fringe the bottom of a sparkling white blouse with black stripes or used daintily to decorate the shoulder of a sheer, black, floor length gown. An absolute favourite was the black and white knee length dress with black sequinned squares on the bust, a large embellished motif in the middle and feathers placed in the shape of flowers on the skirt. It was a beautiful combination of romantic and edgy.

Evening wear in particular was spectacular and there was something for everyone. For the minimalist lover there was the beautiful lime green gown with borderie anglaise at the bottom or a strapless, coral coloured layered ball gown. For a little bit of sparkle, a gold sequinned bustier worn over a matching skirt with embroidered sequins and ostrich feathers hit the spot.

I was also extremely excited to see Oscar's resin flower jewellery on the runway again. I remember I was so gutted when I didn't buy the red flower necklace and earrings a few seasons ago. This time around, I won't sit around waiting for sale. I'll just snap them up as soon as they hit e-commerce platforms. I'm currently crushing on the blue resin flower necklace with flat, dull gold leaves.

Oscar de la Renta knows how to strike a perfect balance. A technique not many can perfect. With so many different elements used in the collection; sometimes individually, sometimes all at once, nothing seemed excessive. Whilst this may have been a ready to wear collection, to me it almost looked like couture.

Oscar de la Renta SS 15

Oscar de la Renta SS 15

Oscar de la Renta SS 15

Oscar de la Renta SS 15

 

New York Fashion Week Round Up: Carolina Herrera, Tory Burch

Carolina Herrera SS 15

Carolina Herrera: Carolina Herrera was in a very experimental mood for next spring. Instead of the usual glitzy red carpet dresses made out of silk and satin, the designer turned towards foam fabrics for her creations with flowers being the main motif throughout. Garments were voluminous yet feather light with large digital blooms on most of them. There was also an oriental feel to the collection.

This was a very technologically advanced collection. For example, the gradient colour treatment on some of the flowers actually made them look 3-dimensional especially on the black knee length silhouette with a grey rose on the skirt.

The second last look consisted of a ball gown with mosaic style patches embroidered all over. Those patches were interestingly enough, made out of foam and were painted to look like a giant pixelated flower with leaves. The same foam patches in white were embroidered on a sheer white top and on a very funky, white architectural jacket.

Throughout the collection, it is interesting to note how the designer folds some of the fabric on silhouettes for added detailing. Examples include a skirt featuring beige linen side panels (with flowers of course) with a white panel in the middle that had origami style folds on each side,  a beige jacket with greyish lapels that were folded on the opposite sides and a boxy yellow top (paired with a matching skirt) with spongy rounded collars.

It is always exciting to see designers venture out of their comfort zone and experiment a bit even if it may be a little risky. In the case of Carolina Herrera, the experiment paid off. Big time.

Carolina Herrera SS 15

Tory Burch: Tory's collection makes me want to book a flight to the South of France right away! For the coming spring, the designer was inspired by Picasso's time spent with his lover Francoise Gilot at their villa in Vallauris. It also happened to be the birthplace of Picasso's interest in ceramics and a point of reference for Tory's collection.

The patterns from the ceramics were transferred on to multi-coloured knits, silks and cotton. Woven textures were crucial to the collection and were seen throughout in the form of crochet tops and skirts with tribal-esque prints. There was a certain rawness in collection with the fringed hems which is exactly what the designer wanted. "A play between raw and refined", to quote Tory. And there was a indeed a refined element to the rawness. A silk dress with blue and white stripes on the bust, a beige V-neck sleeveless top with abstract blue stripes and a fringed hem worn over a woven patterned pencil skirt were excellent examples. Shiny embellishments, in the form of a quill (that's what it looked like) came on a beige midi skirt and a summer jacket at the end of the show. I love pretty landscape prints, so the toile de jouy drawstring pants were a favourite. But more than anything else, it was Tory's crisp white shirts I'll be eyeing come spring.

When it came to the handbags, I've never been a big fan of Tory Burch bags. Perhaps Delhi girls butchering the brand by wearing monogrammed Tory Burch accessories created a bit of an eye sore. Either ways, I was happy to see that the bags for next spring were fresh and from what I could make out, maybe even logo free. There were colour blocked structured shoulder bags, semi woven bucket bags and knitted bags all very unlike the Tory Burch purses I've had an overload of in Delhi.

Tory Burch SS 15

Tory Burch SS 15

Tory Burch SS 15

 

New York Fashion Week Round Up - Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren's girl is going on a glamorous safari next Spring! Khaki coloured clothes were seen throughout the show and were crafted out of luxurious fabrics like silk, satin and chiffon. The show opened with utilitarian, khaki skinny cargo pants in silk and suede, bound to be a hit for SS 15. Paired with bright colours like a purple one shouldered draped top in silk in one look, or a lemon yellow trench coat in another, these trousers were suited for the day or night.

There were Ralph's versions of safari inspired looks all over. Some in all khaki, like the button down suede dress or an organza skirt paired with a waist length, thin, belted wrap jacket, and some in bright colours like the bright orange zip up silk jacket style dress. One cannot miss the slightly Indian influence on the collection as was seen with the Jodhpurs (the trousers that were fuller on the thighs). Especially the look which had a raw silk waistcoat worn on top of the jodhpurs. The best part of the collection was that most of the clothes could so easily be glammed up or turned into lux casual depending on the mood. Take the khaki and black jumpsuits for example, both of which were paired with colourful jewels making it perfect for a fancy evening out. Take the jewellery off and you can effortlessly wear it during the day.

Whilst most of the clothes seemed more on the conservative side, there were a few looks that were sexy as hell without being too in your face. Case in point, the cropped black sweater worn over a long black silk skirt held together by lace from hip to mid thigh and leather detailing.

Eveningwear was spectacular and consisted of a lot of interesting contrasts. The sporty bodice of the pink silhouette was juxtaposed with sparkling jewels and a tulle filled skirt. A heavily embellished yet light as air tulle gown was paired with a huge shoulder bag. A basic safari jacket was turned into a high collared floor sweeping gown (paired with coloured baubles of course).

Apart from the clothes, the accessories from this collection are going to be flying off the shelves. Be it the big, brown distressed leather belt with two pockets (who needs an evening bag when you have this?!) or the shiny jewellery or the gorgeous handbags (the orange croc bucket bag and the black croc tote nearly made me cry) from the collection; I say it would be wise to start a Ralph Lauren SS 15 savings account circa NOW.

Ralph Lauren SS 15

Ralph Lauren SS 15

Ralph Lauren SS 15

Ralph Lauren SS 15

Ralph Lauren SS 15 Bags

Ralph Lauren SS 15 Bags

Ralph Lauren SS 15 Bags

The cool girl's belt

 

New York Fashion Week Round Up - 3.1 Phillip Lim

Designers often turn towards art, history, architecture etc. to look for inspiration for their collections. At Phillip Lim, that wasn't the case. Try bedroom interiors and bedroom furniture and loungewear instead. The designer has been redoing his home and has been stuck in his bedroom for nearly a year. An unusual inspiration right? The results were far from unusual. They were pretty great in fact.

Clothes that were crafted out of fabric with raised patterns (think fancy bedcovers and mattress patterns) were seen throughout. There were beautifully sculpted tops and jackets with curvy lapels and uneven hems, all textured of course. The gold on the white clothes reminded me of the carving you see on Louis XV style furniture but according to Lim, they were a symbol of sunlight peeking through the bedroom window. There were tiny shorts, like the kinds you wear to bed or even like those Nike running shorts that only cover your butt cheeks. Except you could take these out to dinner. (I don't know why, but I really want to see Deepika Padukone wear these shorts. I think with her long limbs and effortless style, she would look amazing!)

Silhouettes with detailing mimicking a bedroom robe belt (the big kinds) were cool and unique. Case in point being, a leather jacket that zipped up on the side or a black and green dress fastened in a complicated style with the belt. And how about the two toned tops with shoe lace styled detailing and a suede patch?

The ankle length drawstring trousers oozed comfort that one can only attain in bedtime pyjamas.  Simpler clothes like a midnight blue dress or an all white suit which one can wear with heels or cool girl trainers were great investment pieces for the everyday closet. However, my favourite were the clothes (especially the white trousers) embroidered with the cane pattern like that on Louis style cane furniture or even those cocktail dresses featuring sheer organza panelling that played peek-a-boo with the skin.

Finally, being the crazy bag lady, I have to talk about the bags. There were two main shapes that were seen throughout the show. One was a soft slouchy triangular shaped with a little indentation in the middle and the other was a soft bucket bag with an edgy metal top handle along with a shoulder strap. The bags came in various colours. But the textured variations with woven cane detailing on them were the ones that made my heart beat faster. It reminded me of my Louis style cane bed and my obsession with anything to do with antique French furniture! I had never bought a Phillip Lim bag before, but these designs are so unique and fun, I think it's time to do so.

For someone who is a master at street wear, Phillip Lim has beautifully added a romantic touch to his otherwise sporty signature. P.S Phillip Lim is available at the Le Mill boutique in Mumbai and through their e-commerce portal.

3.1 Phillip Lim SS 15

3.1 Phillip Lim SS 15

 

3.1 Phillip Lim SS 15 Bags

3.1 Phillip Lim SS 15 Bags - With Woven Cane Detailing

 

New York Fashion Week Roundup: Altuzarra

The show opened with pretty ginghams that remind you of innocence. However, with Altuzarra, it was far from that. The collection was about "sinister and undone prettiness" as described by the designer who was inspired by Rosemary's Baby and Barry Lyndon. It was amazing how he took the most basic silhouettes like a simple skirt suit or even a shirt dress and made them look sexy as hell and that too, in a pattern used for table linen. That's what the show was all about. Contrasts. Slits and deep necks were everywhere and added detailing including ribbons with pearls. Sometimes the ribbons were tied up all prim and proper and sometimes they were trailing screaming nonchalance. Current favourites from the gingham series was the blue shirt tucked into a pink pencil skirt and the blue shirt dress with an added slit on the right.

Then came the black and white stripes, in different angles mind you, with a thin brown belt on the waist. I always thought you couldn't pair brown with black, in Altuzarra's case, you most definitely can. A favourite look amongst the stripes was the camel suede button down shirt tucked into the striped pencil skirt with a slit on the side. I love the different angles of the stripes and the two different colour tones of the black. It really is a world full of contrasts! You can add the striped shirtdress to my favourites list too. Leather lattice in the form of sleeveless coaties, skirt and a dress inspired by renaissance architecture that followed upped the kink factor on the runway. Post this, things got a little feminine and romantic with the floral silhouettes featuring light embellishments. Finally, the beautiful, feather light evening gowns that closed the show, inspired by Barry Lyndon were made to suit modern day times by removing the corsets.

A little sinister, a little innocent, a little kinky, a little conservative, a little romantic, a little edgy; Altuzarra's collection will have women lining up outside boutiques once the collection hits the stores.

Altuzarra SS 15

Altuzarra SS 15

Altuzarra SS 15

 

New York Fashion Week Round Up: Alexander Wang, Prabal Gurung

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang - Boy this was one fierce collection by Wang! Whoever thought that clothes inspired by sneakers would yield such phenomenal creations. Everything was perforated. Jackets, oversized shirts, evening dresses, skin tight dresses and skirts all came with punched holes. The designer definitely played with a lot of textures this time. How cool was that grey leather dress with the design of a sneaker sole on it (I hear the dress was foam injected). And how about those tennis dresses with pleated skirts and tops that looked like they had a leather breast plate on them? Or perhaps the tops which had embroidered cabochons (at least it looked like that)? There were very few smooth surfaces in sight. Then there were skin tight dresses that came in highlighter orange and green that definitely brought sexy back with their scooped low backs.

High waisted pants with leather pockets and contrasting outline, grey sweatpants moulded into comfortable skinny trousers held at the waist with a slim leather belt and side button down, tapered trousers (remember those Addidas track pants with buttons on the side circa 1997); the trousers were just to die for. This was one collection that had very little loose clothing. Apart from the very Wang style oversized white shirt and floor length gowns (all with lots of holes in them) and perhaps a bomber jacket or two, most of the stuff was figure hugging (uh-oh, time to watch out for that muffin top). Those psychedelic mini dresses with pleated skirts worn over tight polo necks towards the end are going to be a massive hit amongst the fashion flock.

However if there's something I'm planning to save for it's the handbags. I've always been a fan of Wang's bags (proud Pelican clutch owner) but these ones were just pretty freaking cool. Both edges of the purses looked like the back ends of sneakers. I spotted a clutch and a small top handle tote with a shoulder strap. All in some pretty funky colours. And guaranteed to be on every cool girl's list or arm come next fashion week. A stellar collection delivered by Wang, yet again.

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang

Prabal Gurung - As much as I love Prabal Gurung, I have to say this collection didn't leave me with the WOW factor that his last two collections did. Remember SS 14? That was pretty great. However, not to say that his SS 15 wasn't good. It really was. Just not as good.

Clothes in shades of white and blue kick started the show. Skirts with trailing scarves paired with blouses crafted out of luxurious fabrics and sporty jackets were very pretty. Especially a racer style top with ostrich feathers on the sleeve. I have some sort of obsession with ostrich feathers I admit. I also really liked his athletic, drawstring trousers with the elongated fabric trailing on the side.

Then came the knee length dresses. Some with flailing drawstrings and some cinched at the waist with industrial-esque side squeeze buckle belts (the ones you have on children's car seats or in suitcases). To be honest, this was the only part of the show I didn't like. I just felt there was too much happening there especially with the ruffled dresses. I preferred the knit tops/sweaters and the beautifully tailored blazers that came in towards the end. The last three evening dresses were the best part of the collection. Sporty and feminine, with racerback bodices, flowy skirts and some embellishments on the torso, these dresses were pure perfection.

Hopefully next season, Prabal should just edit a bit of the excess and all will be well in the fashion world again.

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung