Monday 15 September 2014

New York Fashion Week Round Up: Carolina Herrera, Tory Burch

Carolina Herrera SS 15

Carolina Herrera: Carolina Herrera was in a very experimental mood for next spring. Instead of the usual glitzy red carpet dresses made out of silk and satin, the designer turned towards foam fabrics for her creations with flowers being the main motif throughout. Garments were voluminous yet feather light with large digital blooms on most of them. There was also an oriental feel to the collection.

This was a very technologically advanced collection. For example, the gradient colour treatment on some of the flowers actually made them look 3-dimensional especially on the black knee length silhouette with a grey rose on the skirt.

The second last look consisted of a ball gown with mosaic style patches embroidered all over. Those patches were interestingly enough, made out of foam and were painted to look like a giant pixelated flower with leaves. The same foam patches in white were embroidered on a sheer white top and on a very funky, white architectural jacket.

Throughout the collection, it is interesting to note how the designer folds some of the fabric on silhouettes for added detailing. Examples include a skirt featuring beige linen side panels (with flowers of course) with a white panel in the middle that had origami style folds on each side,  a beige jacket with greyish lapels that were folded on the opposite sides and a boxy yellow top (paired with a matching skirt) with spongy rounded collars.

It is always exciting to see designers venture out of their comfort zone and experiment a bit even if it may be a little risky. In the case of Carolina Herrera, the experiment paid off. Big time.

Carolina Herrera SS 15


Tory Burch: Tory's collection makes me want to book a flight to the South of France right away! For the coming spring, the designer was inspired by Picasso's time spent with his lover Francoise Gilot at their villa in Vallauris. It also happened to be the birthplace of Picasso's interest in ceramics and a point of reference for Tory's collection.

The patterns from the ceramics were transferred on to multi-coloured knits, silks and cotton. Woven textures were crucial to the collection and were seen throughout in the form of crochet tops and skirts with tribal-esque prints. There was a certain rawness in collection with the fringed hems which is exactly what the designer wanted. "A play between raw and refined", to quote Tory. And there was a indeed a refined element to the rawness. A silk dress with blue and white stripes on the bust, a beige V-neck sleeveless top with abstract blue stripes and a fringed hem worn over a woven patterned pencil skirt were excellent examples. Shiny embellishments, in the form of a quill (that's what it looked like) came on a beige midi skirt and a summer jacket at the end of the show. I love pretty landscape prints, so the toile de jouy drawstring pants were a favourite. But more than anything else, it was Tory's crisp white shirts I'll be eyeing come spring.

When it came to the handbags, I've never been a big fan of Tory Burch bags. Perhaps Delhi girls butchering the brand by wearing monogrammed Tory Burch accessories created a bit of an eye sore. Either ways, I was happy to see that the bags for next spring were fresh and from what I could make out, maybe even logo free. There were colour blocked structured shoulder bags, semi woven bucket bags and knitted bags all very unlike the Tory Burch purses I've had an overload of in Delhi.

Tory Burch SS 15

Tory Burch SS 15

Tory Burch SS 15

 

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