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| J.W. Anderson SS 15 |
J.W. Anderson - As much as I love seeing J.W. Anderson's shows, I always had myself wondering, how many of his clothes can actually be worn? I enjoy his collections thoroughly because he loves to experiment with fabrics and creating new proportions (even though sometimes they can be really weird shapes). But in most of his collections, the experimental part trumps commercial viability. For next Spring though, Anderson managed to find a balance between the two.
Models wore big, floppy leather hats as they walked down the runway. Prim and proper silhouettes like a pin striped A-line dress or a linen jacket worn over a flirty A-line skirt (notice the towel material stripes on it) were given an edge by layering the looks with leather. More ladylike looks that had been given the Anderson twist included a finely tailored sleeveless dress layered with neckties along with a simple pin striped suit that came with an oversized bib (covering the bust to the waist) held on by dull gold buttons.
The designer gave a very sophisticated look to even the most abstract creations such as the top and dress with sculptural collars held together by a rope or even those sexy mini skirts worn under midriff baring tops made out of towel type material. However, I'm not particularly sure how I felt about the printed linen dresses with the giant leather stuff in the middle. A bit too surreal for me! The all leather skirt suits where the tops had these huge square sleeves (one side seemed to be hanging in the air) made my heart beat faster! Although my personal favourite was a minimalist white shirt (or shirtdress, I can't tell) with the red leather collar and hole which I think will be flying off the shelves.
This collection proved that as the designer turns 30 and starts a fantastic new job as the new creative director at Loewe, he is really growing up.
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| J.W. Anderson SS 15 |
Roksanda - At first I thought the new label was Roksanda Ilincic's diffusion line. Turns out it's still the designer's main line which has gone through some rebranding. Moving on, for SS 15, Roksanada was inspired by artist Julia Dault's Plexiglas sculptures. The colour palette included bright (more like neon) orange, varying shades of blue and pink and couldn't have been more suited to summer. Opening looks consisted of circles and semi circles stitched on to colour blocked dresses, slouchy sweatshirts and skirts. Sculptural detailing in the form of ruffles that stood away from the body (not the super girly/frilly kinds) was seen on dresses, blouses and a jumpsuit. The ruffles were draped across the chest and trailed all the way down on a dress, or were placed on the waist of a dress to look like abstract peplums, or even as some sort of a funky bib on a jumpsuit. It was interesting to note how this material held itself. Made me wonder what fabric was used. Perhaps something with foam like that we saw at Carolina Herrera? Whatever the case, it was pretty cool.
Dresses and tops with psychedelic prints that followed were embellished with cool plastic discs and reiterated the designer's love to work with plastic. Remember all the colourful plastic embroidery on the closing dress from her fall collection? My favourite from this trippy print series was a sheath dress with a neon orange fabric folded over near the waist down to the upper thigh. Finally, the beautiful organza dresses with squiggly velvet embroidery resembling plastic wires that closed the show were splendid. A perfect collection to celebrate her brand new store on Mount Street in London I must say!
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| Roksanda Ilincic SS 15 |
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| Roksanda Ilincic SS 15 |
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