Wednesday 24 September 2014

London Fashion Week Round Up - Jonathan Saunders, Simone Rocha

Jonathan Saunders SS15

Jonathan Saunders - The Jonathan Saunders show was quite an arty affair. Leaf appliques, a recurring motif throughout the collection was reminiscent of Henri Matisse paper cut outs. They were seen in delicate forms on a black pant suit, or big patches of blue, brown and white on a pretty blue skirt and in some cases, the leaf was embellished too, like a white and blue striped shirt with a cut out patch on it. However, a dress, crafted out of leaves that wafted delicately as the model moved, was a favourite.

A Japanese influence was also strongly present. Giant bows, like the kinds you see on an obi-belt were used on some of the clothes. There were blouses and dresses with 3-D flowers followed by breezy drawstring dresses with somewhat of an abstract shattered glass pattern on them. Things got metallic for evening wear with copper, gold and silver silhouettes but a black metallic skirt with a sheer overlay hit the spot. For more subtle evening ensembles, there were lightly embellished bubble hemmed dresses. All in all, the clothes were a perfect combination of whimsical and wearable.

Jonathan Saunders SS15


Simone Rocha - I'm not quite sure how to describe Simone Rocha's collection.  It was so feminine, yet it didn't feel girly. It was filled with flowers, yet it didn't feel clichéd. With a colour palette of mainly black, white, nude and red, the clothes evoked some extreme emotions.

The designer was inspired by ballet or Pina Bausch to be more specific. Sombre black, fur trimmed dresses with curvy hems opened the show followed by delicate nude coloured silhouettes. The tempo was lifted with energising floral appliqued looks. A nude, tailored trench coat worn over matching trousers with bright red blooms embroidered on them felt modern yet romantic. Black sheer dresses with delicate crochet patches outlining the sleeves and hems were a striking combination of funky, dark (those black veils) and feminine all at once and one can't help but be fatally attracted to those. Similar versions in white felt pure and innocent. From the white cloque outfits that came in towards the end, my personal favourite was sleeveless, slightly voluminous, knee length dress with a scalloped hem and pockets, destined to do extremely well commercially.

The all black looks with sheer veils reminded you of a funeral, however the red flowers are reminiscent of joyful summer. The sheer nude fabric on the bust of the final looks was so delicate in comparison to the structure of the cloque it was paired with. It was a collection of contrasts, and one that will be remembered.

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha

 

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