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| Jil Sander SS15 |
Jil Sander - Whenever a new creative director joins a label, the fashion flock is always excited to see the latest offering. Especially when the brand has been through a bit of a rough patch, like Jil Sander leaving her own brand for the third time. The theme here was androgyny, or rather how to dress like a boy. Crisp, finely tailored shirts (most of them worn under sweaters) that would do well in stores marched down the runway. Personally, I liked the blue one that sort of scrunched at the waist.
There were the boxy shirts too, but those looked a little too frumpy for my liking. And so did the boy shorts. I'm all up for androgyny, but a hint of sex appeal doesn't hurt. Those boy shorts had this whole ugly aesthetic thing going on which I wasn't on board with. What I did enjoy were the skirts, in both the graphic print and leather with the whole diagonal slit thing going on. Very wearable, streamlined and well, true to the brand's minimalist motto. Rodolfo Paglialunga played it relatively safe as a new creative head at Jil Sander. What I do hope is that he ditches the whole frumpy/ugly look for next season. There's no rulebook that says androgyny can't be sexy.
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| Jil Sander SS15 |
Antonio Marras - At Antonio Marras, the clothes were just plain beautiful. There were lovely dresses, some dripping with 3D embroidered flowers, others with floral and abstract prints. A series of striped ensembles marched down the runway that were paired with Japanese blossom type prints or colourful embroidery. My favourite was a straight cut dress (very Japanese looking actually) cinched at the waist; the front layer was orange with a print that looked a 3D version of splashes of blue paint (or at least it looked like that to me) and the back side consisted of stripes.
Things got a little surrealist from there onwards as creepy looking hands, complete with red nails (inspired by Italian artist Carol Rama) decorated the clothes. They were seen in abundance on a blue ankle length dress or simply caressing the neck of a model in a tailored, pristine white romper. Towards the end of the show, there were these pretty pleated skirts (it could have been part of a dress too, it's difficult to tell looking at photos) with strips of different fabrics stitched on in various angles. Those skirts were extremely well crafted, almost like a work of art. A black sweater with those freaky hands and flowers embroidered on to it, was high on my must have list.
I liked the little darkness that came with this collection. It added a little bit of an edge. And surrealist prints, all said and done are a dead on recipe for success. For now at least. All in all, a truly lovely collection for next year.
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| Antonio Marras SS15 |
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| Antonio Marras SS15 |
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