London Fashion Week Round Up - Tom Ford

Tom Ford SS15

Ease superimposed with sexiness, pushing both to the edge at times represents the Tom Ford woman for the spring of 2015. The effortless attitude was palpable in the shaggy hair and the smudged mascara and the flared pants a bit evocative of the 70’s. But on second thoughts maybe the ease was just another component of the fierce and glamorous woman who likes to play it a bit rough. The shimmering tones of gold, emerald and black, the leopard imprints on the shoes and body hugging constructions were all out there. The short lengths and the pasties just stepped it up more than a notch. Blazers and pants inset with sheer meant business. The full-sleeved emerald top paired with the flared pants called for attention the most in my opinion- the garb was a perfect encapsulation of a super-chic languid glamour. The White gown that followed down the pasties on Binx Walton stood out, for reasons pertaining more to Walton herself than the striking white on her. Most designers have been working with the ongoing sporty trend, meanwhile, Ford really couldn't give a crap.

Tom Ford SS15

 

London Fashion Week Round Up - Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum SS15

EXTRA!! READ ALL ABOUT IT!!! NOW, FOR A LIMITED TIME PERIOD, SHOP THE BURBERRY PRORSUM SS15 COLLECTION ON THEIR WEBSITE!!!!

This offer is valid till 29th September 2014


Okay, okay now that I've passed on this sensational news like an overzealous newspaper boy (along with a disclaimer in teeny tiny font) to all Burberry fans in India (Anushka Sharma are you listening? ) I'll get down to the review.

Christopher Bailey has really changed my outlook towards Burberry. He has stayed true to the label's heritage whilst reinventing it season after season. I'm still thinking about the FW 14 collection and those scarves. For next Spring, Bailey was thinking English summertime and vintage British book covers. Whilst the collection wasn't ground breaking in my opinion, it certainly was very good and pieces ARE going to sell out like hot cakes.

Denim jackets, one of the key elements to Bailey's collection, came in various versions and were juxtaposed with delicate tulle. Some were finished with either an ostrich feather or shearling trim (there were a few with structured peplums too) whilst others came with glossy, patent leather collars reminding me of the neon coloured 80's. But the coolest was the denim trench coat featuring bright blue, patent leather gun flaps and giant pockets, a suede collar, cinched at the waist with a tulle belt. There was lots of tulle too, invoking a sense of lightness, or breeziness. Silhouettes crafted out of pleated tulle floated gracefully. There were pretty tiered dresses likely to be seen on the red carpet, some worn on their own, and some with jackets. But honestly, as pretty as the tulle clothes were, they didn't really strike a note. Well, not to me at least. I think Bailey played it safe there.

All the while, the clothes were either paired with simple colour blocked trainers or chunky Birkenstock and floater crossbreeds. Yes, you can breathe a sigh of relief if you invested in those ugly Prada floaters or Valentino sneakers during the summer. They will continue to be "in style" till the end of next summer at least.

Moving on to the trench coats, those hit a home run, again and again and again! My first favourite was in bright yellow suede, with a large children's story book-esque bee motif, hand-painted first at the studio, before being printed on to the leather. From the grand finale of the iconic gabardine trenches that marched the runway, it was impossible to pick a favourite. In shades of blue, yellow, pink, teal and khaki, complete with vintage book cover prints screen-printed on to the fabric, detachable patent leather collars and oversized buttons, I suggest you pre-order yours NOW if you don't want to be on a Burberry waitlist.

Next season also brings a brand new bag model, also known as the Bee in two sizes. A mini and a larger version, both in grained, colour blocked leather. The bag features rolled top handles, hand painted edges and protective feet on the base. What I adored the most, was the heritage inspired buckle fastening detailing on both sides. Adds a very playful touch. Personally, I'm rooting for the mini. In addition to the Bee, there were also grained leather pouches with the same book cover print that were cute and fun.

Burberry Prorsum SS15

Burberry Prorsum SS15 - Burberry Bee Bag

Burberry Prorsum SS15 - Pouches

 

London Fashion Week Round Up - Jonathan Saunders, Simone Rocha

Jonathan Saunders SS15

Jonathan Saunders - The Jonathan Saunders show was quite an arty affair. Leaf appliques, a recurring motif throughout the collection was reminiscent of Henri Matisse paper cut outs. They were seen in delicate forms on a black pant suit, or big patches of blue, brown and white on a pretty blue skirt and in some cases, the leaf was embellished too, like a white and blue striped shirt with a cut out patch on it. However, a dress, crafted out of leaves that wafted delicately as the model moved, was a favourite.

A Japanese influence was also strongly present. Giant bows, like the kinds you see on an obi-belt were used on some of the clothes. There were blouses and dresses with 3-D flowers followed by breezy drawstring dresses with somewhat of an abstract shattered glass pattern on them. Things got metallic for evening wear with copper, gold and silver silhouettes but a black metallic skirt with a sheer overlay hit the spot. For more subtle evening ensembles, there were lightly embellished bubble hemmed dresses. All in all, the clothes were a perfect combination of whimsical and wearable.

Jonathan Saunders SS15

Simone Rocha - I'm not quite sure how to describe Simone Rocha's collection.  It was so feminine, yet it didn't feel girly. It was filled with flowers, yet it didn't feel clichéd. With a colour palette of mainly black, white, nude and red, the clothes evoked some extreme emotions.

The designer was inspired by ballet or Pina Bausch to be more specific. Sombre black, fur trimmed dresses with curvy hems opened the show followed by delicate nude coloured silhouettes. The tempo was lifted with energising floral appliqued looks. A nude, tailored trench coat worn over matching trousers with bright red blooms embroidered on them felt modern yet romantic. Black sheer dresses with delicate crochet patches outlining the sleeves and hems were a striking combination of funky, dark (those black veils) and feminine all at once and one can't help but be fatally attracted to those. Similar versions in white felt pure and innocent. From the white cloque outfits that came in towards the end, my personal favourite was sleeveless, slightly voluminous, knee length dress with a scalloped hem and pockets, destined to do extremely well commercially.

The all black looks with sheer veils reminded you of a funeral, however the red flowers are reminiscent of joyful summer. The sheer nude fabric on the bust of the final looks was so delicate in comparison to the structure of the cloque it was paired with. It was a collection of contrasts, and one that will be remembered.

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha

 

London Fashion Week Round Up: J.W.Anderson, Roksanda

J.W. Anderson SS 15

J.W. Anderson - As much as I love seeing J.W. Anderson's shows, I always had myself wondering, how many of his clothes can actually be worn? I enjoy his collections thoroughly because he loves to experiment with fabrics and creating new proportions (even though sometimes they can be really weird shapes). But in most of his collections, the experimental part trumps commercial viability. For next Spring though, Anderson managed to find a balance between the two.

Models wore big, floppy leather hats as they walked down the runway. Prim and proper silhouettes like a pin striped A-line dress or a linen jacket worn over a flirty A-line skirt (notice the towel material stripes on it) were given an edge by layering the looks with leather. More ladylike looks that had been given the Anderson twist included a finely tailored sleeveless dress layered with neckties along with a simple pin striped suit that came with an oversized bib (covering the bust to the waist) held on by dull gold buttons.

The designer gave a very sophisticated look to even the most abstract creations such as the top and dress with sculptural collars held together by a rope or even those sexy mini skirts worn under  midriff baring tops made out of towel type material. However, I'm not particularly sure how I felt about the printed linen dresses with the giant leather stuff in the middle. A bit too surreal for me! The all leather skirt suits where the tops had these huge square sleeves (one side seemed to be hanging in the air) made my heart beat faster! Although my personal favourite was a minimalist white shirt (or shirtdress, I can't tell) with the red leather collar and hole which I think will be flying off the shelves.

This collection proved that as the designer turns 30 and starts a fantastic new job as the new creative director at Loewe, he is really growing up.

J.W. Anderson SS 15

Roksanda - At first I thought the new label was Roksanda Ilincic's diffusion line. Turns out it's still the designer's main line which has gone through some rebranding. Moving on, for SS 15, Roksanada was inspired by artist Julia Dault's Plexiglas sculptures. The colour palette included bright (more like neon) orange, varying shades of blue and pink and couldn't have been more suited to summer. Opening looks consisted of circles and semi circles stitched on to colour blocked dresses, slouchy sweatshirts and skirts. Sculptural detailing in the form of ruffles that stood away from the body (not the super girly/frilly kinds) was seen on dresses, blouses and a jumpsuit. The ruffles were draped across the chest and trailed all the way down on a dress, or were placed on the waist of a dress to look like abstract peplums, or even as some sort of a funky bib on a jumpsuit. It was interesting to note how this material held itself. Made me wonder what  fabric was used. Perhaps something with foam like that we saw at Carolina Herrera? Whatever the case, it was pretty cool. 

Dresses and tops with psychedelic prints that followed were embellished with cool plastic discs and reiterated the designer's love to work with plastic. Remember all the colourful plastic embroidery on the closing dress from her fall collection? My favourite from this trippy print series was a sheath dress with a neon orange fabric folded over near the waist down to the upper thigh.  Finally, the beautiful organza dresses with squiggly velvet embroidery resembling plastic wires that closed the show were splendid. A perfect collection to celebrate her brand new store on Mount Street in London I must say!

Roksanda Ilincic SS 15

Roksanda Ilincic SS 15

 

New York Fashion Week Round Up - Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs SS 15

Military seems to be marching through fashion week and rendered in ways that one can't even begin to imagine! Military spliced with a couture treatment, a concept just like the case of sports couture that has prevailed in the last few seasons has become a major trend this fashion week. The baggy silhouettes had form and appeal, the fine constructions dwelling within the heavy silhouette. Albeit the palette was spot on military, but there was also a vivid juxtaposition in the Pink set that Jacobs fashioned to stage the collection. Cargo Pants and jackets, skirts long or short and flared along with dresses cinched at the waist with the aid of belts, were the primary silhouettes.

Everything was in line with the theme and with reasonable subtlety till this point; enter Marc-ibilities (it could be Marc’s sensibility or the ingenious lack of it). The fabrics got shinier shifting from cotton to silk duchesse, buttons and the patch pockets bigger and more scattered and so did the flowery motif.  For the woman who can't associate with the whole military theme, there were straight cut dresses embellished with giant cabochons and sparkly buttons. And favourites but not standouts, if they have to pointed out: A lax kimono-esque pullover paired with cargo pants where the ease of the silhouette seamlessly transcended to instant likeability for the wearer.  There was the also the cropped top and long skirt combo, again, stamped likeable for the balance the comfortable skirt imparted to the cropped accompaniments. All the while, these clothes were paired with Dr. Scholl's sandals, guaranteed to be on the fashion flock's feet come next summer.

Bag lovers can rejoice because, there are going to be some crazy Marc Jacobs bags to choose from. Structured, rectangular and square shaped colour blocked shoulder bags with name tags and all (some can be used a small sling bag too), utilitarian style soft and silky cross bodies, totes and backpack bags with cabochons and lets not forget the super luxurious oversized crocodile hobo that comes with a matching croco name tag.

It was a collection of contrasts. Rough and delicate, singular and likeable, and all so quintessentially Marc.

Marc Jacobs SS 15

Marc Jacobs SS 15 Bags

Marc Jacobs SS 15 Bags

 

New York Fashion Week Round Up - Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta SS 15

At Oscar de la Renta, models floated down the runway to western classical music in the prettiest of clothes. A pink gingham coat and a blue checked midriff baring top paired with a matching skirt were amongst my favourites from the opening looks. Flowers were very significant to the collection. There were tulips pasted on dresses, shirts and even seen embroidered on a fur coat. The pastel pink dress with a tulip on the white lapel and the baby blue ball gown with silver tulips were just heavenly. There were other colourful blooms  stitched on everything from organza to a crochet dress to a gorgeous white coat. Although, being partial to blue, I have to say, the blue coat bursting with flowers was just divine.

Whilst the collection may have been very feminine, the designer ensured he also made it extremely sexy. Laser cut skirts and dresses playing peek-a-boo with skin were graceful and sensual at the same time. Clothes with broderie anglaise had the same effect. Case in point: A white maxi dress (cinched with a silver belt) with eyelets and holes cut out all over. Feathers also made their way into the clothes. Either used in abundance to fringe the bottom of a sparkling white blouse with black stripes or used daintily to decorate the shoulder of a sheer, black, floor length gown. An absolute favourite was the black and white knee length dress with black sequinned squares on the bust, a large embellished motif in the middle and feathers placed in the shape of flowers on the skirt. It was a beautiful combination of romantic and edgy.

Evening wear in particular was spectacular and there was something for everyone. For the minimalist lover there was the beautiful lime green gown with borderie anglaise at the bottom or a strapless, coral coloured layered ball gown. For a little bit of sparkle, a gold sequinned bustier worn over a matching skirt with embroidered sequins and ostrich feathers hit the spot.

I was also extremely excited to see Oscar's resin flower jewellery on the runway again. I remember I was so gutted when I didn't buy the red flower necklace and earrings a few seasons ago. This time around, I won't sit around waiting for sale. I'll just snap them up as soon as they hit e-commerce platforms. I'm currently crushing on the blue resin flower necklace with flat, dull gold leaves.

Oscar de la Renta knows how to strike a perfect balance. A technique not many can perfect. With so many different elements used in the collection; sometimes individually, sometimes all at once, nothing seemed excessive. Whilst this may have been a ready to wear collection, to me it almost looked like couture.

Oscar de la Renta SS 15

Oscar de la Renta SS 15

Oscar de la Renta SS 15

Oscar de la Renta SS 15

 

New York Fashion Week Round Up: Carolina Herrera, Tory Burch

Carolina Herrera SS 15

Carolina Herrera: Carolina Herrera was in a very experimental mood for next spring. Instead of the usual glitzy red carpet dresses made out of silk and satin, the designer turned towards foam fabrics for her creations with flowers being the main motif throughout. Garments were voluminous yet feather light with large digital blooms on most of them. There was also an oriental feel to the collection.

This was a very technologically advanced collection. For example, the gradient colour treatment on some of the flowers actually made them look 3-dimensional especially on the black knee length silhouette with a grey rose on the skirt.

The second last look consisted of a ball gown with mosaic style patches embroidered all over. Those patches were interestingly enough, made out of foam and were painted to look like a giant pixelated flower with leaves. The same foam patches in white were embroidered on a sheer white top and on a very funky, white architectural jacket.

Throughout the collection, it is interesting to note how the designer folds some of the fabric on silhouettes for added detailing. Examples include a skirt featuring beige linen side panels (with flowers of course) with a white panel in the middle that had origami style folds on each side,  a beige jacket with greyish lapels that were folded on the opposite sides and a boxy yellow top (paired with a matching skirt) with spongy rounded collars.

It is always exciting to see designers venture out of their comfort zone and experiment a bit even if it may be a little risky. In the case of Carolina Herrera, the experiment paid off. Big time.

Carolina Herrera SS 15

Tory Burch: Tory's collection makes me want to book a flight to the South of France right away! For the coming spring, the designer was inspired by Picasso's time spent with his lover Francoise Gilot at their villa in Vallauris. It also happened to be the birthplace of Picasso's interest in ceramics and a point of reference for Tory's collection.

The patterns from the ceramics were transferred on to multi-coloured knits, silks and cotton. Woven textures were crucial to the collection and were seen throughout in the form of crochet tops and skirts with tribal-esque prints. There was a certain rawness in collection with the fringed hems which is exactly what the designer wanted. "A play between raw and refined", to quote Tory. And there was a indeed a refined element to the rawness. A silk dress with blue and white stripes on the bust, a beige V-neck sleeveless top with abstract blue stripes and a fringed hem worn over a woven patterned pencil skirt were excellent examples. Shiny embellishments, in the form of a quill (that's what it looked like) came on a beige midi skirt and a summer jacket at the end of the show. I love pretty landscape prints, so the toile de jouy drawstring pants were a favourite. But more than anything else, it was Tory's crisp white shirts I'll be eyeing come spring.

When it came to the handbags, I've never been a big fan of Tory Burch bags. Perhaps Delhi girls butchering the brand by wearing monogrammed Tory Burch accessories created a bit of an eye sore. Either ways, I was happy to see that the bags for next spring were fresh and from what I could make out, maybe even logo free. There were colour blocked structured shoulder bags, semi woven bucket bags and knitted bags all very unlike the Tory Burch purses I've had an overload of in Delhi.

Tory Burch SS 15

Tory Burch SS 15

Tory Burch SS 15