Anthony vacarello's debut collection for was splendid, albeit a little restrained. The show focussed on ultra sexy looks with plunging sweetheart necklines, sheer fabrics on the bust, and short dresses. Silhouettes were mainly in black and leather was plenty. The whole collection had a very vamp-ish appeal. And in a good way. Cleavage bearing tops in leather/velvet were worn over low slung boyfriend jeans and looked effortlessly cool. The mutton leg sleeves added a dramatic flair and were a constant through the show. In sparkling silver as an accent to a tank top, in leopard print or plain black as part of a dress or embellished as part of a fancy top; these sleeves were attention grabbing and fabulous. Jackets were part of the offering too. Grunge and biker style in leather, tapestry inspired in velvet, beautifully tailored tuxedo style or just a single good ol' denim number. Elsewhere gold lamé was draped into a mini skirt and a full sleeved mini dress cinched at the waist with fabric gathered on one side creating a bit of a waterfall effect.
The show wouldn't be complete without Vaccarello's interpretations on the classic Le Smoking tuxedo where blazers were worn over see through, lingerie style blouses. What i felt was an unnecessary addition was the single boob bearing dress. It wasn't shocking (come on, do you really get shocked when you see a boob nowadays???), it isn't convenient and who apart from Rihanna or Lady Gaga is going to even consider wearing it? A bit pointless in my opinion. Finally, what really stole the show were some of the accessories. The ear cuff, the lapel pin and stiletto heels all bearing the old YSL logo were brilliant. Be prepared to be on the wait list to get your hands on those once they hit the market. Although, I'm stills scratching my head about why there weren't any bags on the runway. Considering they are the bread and butter for most labels, I expected to see some. Maybe some other time!
An overall fun debut collection delivered by Anthony Vaccarello. The designer played it safe and I don't blame him considering he's just replaced Hedi, who took the label to new heights. With a positive response for this show, I have a good feeling about his future collections.
a adore these looks!
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