Paris Fashion Week Round Up - Loewe

 

Loewe SS15

Being a big J.W Anderson fan, I was quite looking forward to seeing his debut womenswear collection for Loewe. And I'm glad he didn't disappoint. Whilst referring back to past collections from the Spanish house to compare, I noticed that even though there were beautiful clothes, there was also some restraint. Not this time though. J.W. Anderson seems to have liberated Loewe by adding his signature to it. Staying true to the house's codes, the designer used a lot of leather throughout, but focussed on lightness and fluidity at the same time.

A caramel coloured suede dress opened the show with patches of leather appliqued onto it and a bunch of colourful tops that came in the middle featuring the same leather patchwork were edgy with somewhat of a primal feel. I also loved those tailored yet slightly slouchy judo pants in various colours. The house's archival scarf prints were transferred on to latex tops which was a bold move. Personally I'm not a latex clothing fan, but it's interesting to the note the various different textures Anderson played with. Other fabrics like silk and linen also made their way through to the collection. A knitted silk and gauze maxi dress,  a pleated linen skirt and a baby blue Merino wool jumper were so simple but beautiful.

I never paid much attention to Loewe bags before, but that has changed since seeing this collection. Not only has J.W. Anderson designed some lovely clothes, but some pretty cool bags too. The new shapes include a super soft hobo ish bag called the Bounce bag and also a gorgeous tote that comes in delicious colours called the Puzzle bag. But perhaps the most desirable purse was the one with patches of fabric stitched on to it just like on some of the clothes. I can't wait to see this collection in stores.

All in all, a fantastic debut for J.W Anderson as the new creative director at the Spanish label. He has beautifully reinvented the Loewe woman and I'm loving her.



Loewe SS15

Loewe SS15 Bounce Bag

Loewe SS15 Bag

Loewe SS15 Puzzle Bag

 

Paris Fashion Week Round Up - Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten SS15

Light and breezy does it with the Dries Van Noten SS15 collection. The DVN girl doesn't need to try hard. She sort of puts on her clothes with the greatest of ease and is good to go. And that is exactly what we saw. The ensembles were almost effortless, and crafted from the most luxurious fabrics some of which were actually created for the collection. There were jackets, bound to sell out like hot cakes - like the opening jacket in what looked like silk jacquard or a tribal-esque embroidered black zip front bomber or even a bi-colour sleeveless piece in raw silk and beautiful pink embroidered flowers.

There was an undeniable Indian feel all over especially with the use of printed silk, brocade and  those slouchy trousers that reminded me of jodhpurs/patialas. One look in particular that consisted of a round hemmed silk tunic worn over loosely fitted trousers almost looked it was a short kurti and a Patiala suit. Colourful, striped clothes like a wafty, tiered maxi, a see through shirt worn under a sleeveless vest or the cropped trousers were fun and extremely desirable. There was of course the designer's signature masculine touch seen in the knee length shorts. But one look that bowled me over was a semi-sheer tank maxi, featuring a rich brocade bust and a thigh high slit paired with a pair of jeans that had a gold cuff. Bohemian doesn't get chicer than that. Also, the jewellery, a simple branch, held together by the most delicate gold chain - I'll be damned if I don't buy that next year!

Dries Van Noten SS15

 

Paris Fashion Week Round Up - Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton SS15

There are some shows that linger on in your head for a while to come. This was one of them. Whilst I can't talk about the set which many deemed to be the best of the season, I can certainly say that the clothes most definitely were. Ghesquière played with texturing and used some phenomenal construction techniques as was seen in the knitwear throughout the show. Leather was cleverly intertwined in the necks of knit dresses and tops that opened the show. I especially loved the high necked ones where the leather hung like a shoe lace. In the middle of the show, there were a bunch of really edgy dresses with soft, curvy folds on the skirt made from either intricate, laser cut leather (at least it looked like that) or a combination knitwear and leather. The green, white and black number in particular was a favourite. Glitzy yet sporty (because of the zip front), heavily sequinned dresses worn over tights were perfect for the eveningwear category.

The designer has used skins extensively in this past two collections for Louis Vuitton and it was no different this time. From the series of looks made out of eel skin, a red, yellow and black sleeveless shift stood out. However, the most talked about pieces are no doubt going those printed ensembles with fun items like salt/pepper shakers, the petite malle bags, nail polish, rotary telephone and eyelash curlers amongst other things. The printed jeans are definitely going to grace the cover of almost every big shot magazine come next year.

Being a leather goods house, bags were naturally a crucial part of the show. Shoulder bags were either boxy & structured or were soft with a fold over design. There were new variations of the Petite Malle and also a very large version of the Alma. However, my personal favourite was one that looked similar to their Chantilly cross body bag. Except this had an extra strap to hold it as a shoulder bag (you can also hold is as a cross body) and a cool clasp closure.

Louis Vuitton SS15

Louis Vuitton SS15 Bags

Louis Vuitton SS15 Bags

 

Paris Fashion Week Round Up - Christian Dior

Dior SS15

When Raf Simons presented his couture collection a few months ago, I was left mesmerised by not only the clothes but how he looked to the past for the future and reinterpreted it in the most original manner. For next Spring, the designer continued the theme and transformed the haute couture clothes he showcased, into ready to wear. “For this collection I wanted to continue; I thought there was more to explore. By beginning with the ingredients and the form language of the couture, but going further, I wanted the ready-to-wear to feel more modern, more dynamic, more real – I wanted it to be made available to a wider audience ” explains Raf in the press release.

There were lighter versions of the pannier dresses that were previously a part of the couture collection. Except this time the bodices were in the form of racer back knit tanks. Embroidered 18th century court coats and gilets, most of which had like a ribbon closure along with long Edwardian coats were worn over skater shorts, beautifully combining the old and the new. A powder blue velvet jacket (forming an inverted V from below the bust because of a wrap-over construction) with pretty colourful buttons and another in coral linen with black embroidery were my favourites amongst the outerwear. Dresses crafted from plaited ribbon (Monsieur Dior loved ribbon) looked fresh and modern. Pant suit jackets and coat dresses with buttons on the hips were reminiscent of Dior's New Look. There was lots of white used throughout the collection. The lightly embroidered shirt dresses towards the end resembling nightdresses from the Victorian era looked really cool especially when worn over contrasting coloured hand-knitted boots.

A collection inspired by a very rich past, but modern and light enough to wear now; is it any wonder why Raf is currently one of the greatest fashion designers today.

Dior SS15

 

Milan Fashion Week Round Up - Prada

Prada SS15

As much of a traditional design house Prada is, it’s stood apart always for a distinctive edge. An edge of being ahead, of being unique and being offbeat-the offbeat that very uncharacteristically turns mainstream. The spring summer presentation by Muccia Prada accounted for the same but not as much the same. If it wasn’t as provocative, as out there and as vivid as the last few it had its own unanticipated character of restraint and stark straight forwardness. This reflected in the full sized A-line dresses and coats in black with contrast top stitching that progressed towards an infusion of print and leather detailing and culminating with complete print on print and full leather treatment of the garments. The trick lied in the solid construction of the clothes, but these came with eccentricities that blended in as much as they juxtaposed, for instance, the almost knee length socks, that were worn throughout the show with the not so petite wooden clogs. The tattered edges and the frayed detailing that went hand in hand with all that showed the restraint.

This is how the expected conjured- the controlled treatment that was the leitmotif but it never could sustain at Muccia’s Prada without what counters it throughout. If there were pockets bursting out at the waist, there were also diamonds and brocades. Only if you look close you realize where the genius lies in the details and where the shocking takes shelter behind the deceiving normalcy on the face. And there you have your quintessential Prada.    

Prada SS15

Prada SS15 Bag

The must have Prada SS15 shoe

Text by Nitiz Kaila

Milan Fashion Week Round Up - Jil Sander, Antonio Marras

Jil Sander SS15

Jil Sander - Whenever a new creative director joins a label, the fashion flock is always excited to see the latest offering. Especially when the brand has been through a bit of a rough patch, like Jil Sander leaving her own brand for the third time. The theme here was androgyny, or rather how to dress like a boy. Crisp, finely tailored shirts (most of them worn under sweaters) that would do well in stores marched down the runway. Personally, I liked the blue one that sort of scrunched at the waist.

There were the boxy shirts too, but those looked a little too frumpy for my liking. And so did the boy shorts. I'm all up for androgyny, but a hint of sex appeal doesn't hurt. Those boy shorts had this whole ugly aesthetic thing going on which I wasn't on board with. What I did enjoy were the skirts, in both the graphic print and leather with the whole diagonal slit thing going on. Very wearable, streamlined and well, true to the brand's minimalist motto. Rodolfo Paglialunga played it relatively safe as a new creative head at Jil Sander. What I do hope is that he ditches the whole frumpy/ugly look for next season. There's no rulebook that says androgyny can't be sexy.

Jil Sander SS15

Antonio Marras - At Antonio Marras, the clothes were just plain beautiful. There were lovely dresses, some dripping with 3D embroidered flowers, others with floral and abstract prints. A series of striped ensembles marched down the runway that were paired with Japanese blossom type prints or colourful embroidery. My favourite was a straight cut dress (very Japanese looking actually) cinched at the waist; the front layer was orange with a print that looked a 3D version of splashes of blue paint (or at least it looked like that to me) and the back side consisted of stripes.

Things got a little surrealist from there onwards as creepy looking hands, complete with red nails (inspired by Italian artist Carol Rama) decorated the clothes. They were seen in abundance on a blue ankle length dress or simply caressing the neck of a model in a tailored, pristine white romper. Towards the end of the show, there were these pretty pleated skirts (it could have been part of a dress too, it's difficult to tell looking at photos) with strips of different fabrics stitched on in various angles. Those skirts were extremely well crafted, almost like a work of art. A black sweater with those freaky hands and flowers embroidered on to it, was high on my must have list.

I liked the little darkness that came with this collection. It added a little bit of an edge. And surrealist prints, all said and done are a dead on recipe for success. For now at least. All in all, a truly lovely collection for next year.

Antonio Marras SS15

Antonio Marras SS15

 

Milan Fashion Week Round Up - Tod's

Tod's SS15

Tod's SS15 collection was one any woman can easily relate to. There was a very relaxed feel to it and most of the clothes could be incorporated into daily wear wardrobes almost effortlessly. Leather silhouettes dominated the show. And what I loved most was how Allesandra Facchinetti gave the material an everyday appeal. From the leather series, loosely cut dresses with giant pockets (some came with laser cut holes), the boxy tops (some with embellishments) and skirts seemed easy to carry. Normally leather silhouettes have this rigid/restricting vibe which wasn't the case here.

There were pant suits too, but not the super tight kinds. Beautifully tailored jackets were worn over slightly loose cropped pants and came in a tropical print, bright colours (the blue one in particular was beautiful) and even denim with exotic skin pockets. And cotton numbers like a baby blue jump suit and a pristine white skirt were just perfect for those excruciating hot summers.

What I also noticed was the very fresh take in bags for the coming season. Normally, I find Tod's bags to be a little too mature for my taste, minus the D-cubes which are quite cute actually. However, this collection featured some very fun shapes especially those bucket bags which are on my wishlist for next year along with their very funky marble and crystal jewellery.

Tod's SS15