Tuesday, 29 October 2013

Designer and High Street Collaborations - Yaay or Naay?

While checking out the much anticipated Isabel Marant for H&M collection, I got thinking about designer- high street collaborations and my stance on it.

One may at the risk of sounding slightly elitist assume that the whole point of designer wear is to be seen in one-of-a-kind creations -- to wear exquisite clothes with superb craftsmanship, luxuriant fabrics, and the “made in Italy” or “made in France” tag. Then come along these collaborations which of course are an excellent way to bridge the gap to masses. But what I don’t like in this phenomenon is that most of these designs in such arrangements are hand-me-downs from the label's previous collections. I would go as far as to say that these make me feel slightly cheated. 


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Lanvin SS 2009
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Lanvin for H&M
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Lanvin SS 2008


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Lanvin for H&M

Now it is given that this transcend comes with assembly-line construction methods, and more consumer-friendly fabrics. Trickling down designs in these unions is what I have a bit of an issue with. I think it’s unfair for the consumers who are expecting something new, something trendy from the designer. I know I would at least -- how great it would be to see new retail-oriented design innovations while maintaining the signature at the same time.

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Maison Martin Margiela for H&M
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Maison Martin Margiela SS 2011
From the designer’s perspective, it is a fantastic opportunity to create brand awareness and to reach out to a greater audience. Also, high street chains do end up copying runway designs to death every season. So by doing these collaborations, at least the designer gets their name stamped on it and they get their fair chunk of returns. Then maybe, this is a way to stay afloat as the big money always lies in numbers. From the consumer’s point of view, most people cannot afford to dish out a few thousand dollars or so for a Lanvin cocktail dress. For them, these collaborations are the ideal way to sport a high end designer’s label minus the steep price tag.

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Maison Martin Margiela FW 2011
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Maison Martin Margiela for H&M
Another thing I always wondered was how the customers who buy designer wear feel about these collaborations. Would a die-hard Versace ready-to-wear fan be okay to see Versace-labelled designs being sold at H&M after having spent so much money on the original designs? I save a decent amount of money every year to splurge on one or two handbags, so if I were to see one of them designed for a high street collaboration, I know I wouldn't be happy. 

Finally, what factors make a couture house such as Maison Martin Margiela to be a part of these associations? Being a couturier is in itself the epitome of being exclusive -- what about the mixed message it may send out, and brand value dilution? Again, I don’t mean to sound elitist in any way but this does strike some curiosity. Dior and Louis Vuitton don’t even go on sale (Dior used to though, but not anymore), hell neither Dior or Chanel even participate in e-commerce and that in some way is one of their USPs: to keep themselves completely away from the high street. 

I guess this post makes my take on the collaborations pretty evident but maybe that might change if designers started creating some new and original designs for the high street as opposed to recreating past collections with the odd tweak here and there.  Using older designs for a collaboration to me sends out the message "since you can't afford my original designs, here's a cheaper version of the real thing" which I feel is a little demeaning. If designers choose to associate with high street brands, it would be great if we see some super cool and unique stuff.

Thursday, 24 October 2013

WIFW SS 2014: Samant Chauhan, Pero by Aneeth Arora, Virtues by Viral, Ashish and Vikrant - Shows we love!

Folks, do not say I didn't warn you about how big this post is. I am kind of already delayed in writing about things we love at WIFW -- but it is never too late to showcase fabulous fashion. And keeping the mood precisely fab, I would love pointing out Samant Chauhan's collection first. 

I am always interested in literally (mentally) dissecting collections by designers who stick to working within a light-coloured palette. Let us not think about the spring-summer factor of it -- I beleive it is risque, that is making it work. It  is done to death, what with Rohit Bal, TT and Anamika Khanna showcasing lights to their best advantage. Still Samant's collection made me feel 'pleasant'. The nudes with peeping-reds, and dull-gold embellishments might not seem to be spectacular at the first look. Yet once you absorb in the details, it sinks in that the combinations are working beautifully. And being a big advocate of green fashion, I have nothing to complain about here. Minimal and classy with silhouettes ranging from gowns to separate!


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Next up is label Pero by Aneeth Arora. I remember attending her first ever fashion week showcase back in the days and thinking that "is she for real (in a good sense)"! I mean I never could have thought that traditional weaves and texturing, and multiple-layering could enthuse casual, easy, and chic vibes -- that too all at the same time, and look so darn good. Now that style has indeed become Arora's signature. The very talented designer proves that Indian techniques can actually transcend into ensembles that need not necessarily incorporate touches of fusion.

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For WIFW SS 2014, she also struck to a light palette, with some outfits incorporating black as well. And dashes of English florals and polka dots lent an uber feminine touch on the runway. A first look suggested easy construction, but these garments were all hand-stitched with non-OTT, painstakingly created traditional surface ornamentation from Andhra, Gujarat, et cetera.
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Fresh, non-fitted silhouettes dictated the dresses, with sheer-play and delicate upper bodices.

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Separates incorporated checks that Arora has always favoured, alongside crushed fabrics that I frankly never thought can work. However, she makes it happen. All in all, here was a show that was a pure dose of fashion coupled with a deep thought presence, with an end result that can't help but make me a huge fan girl of Aneeth Arora.

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I also loved the collection from label Virtues by Viral, Ashish and Vikrant. That lehenga shown in the first picture below caught my fancy the most. You know I love my bling, yet this particular number has oodles of impact minus it! Ink blue-dominated, the ensembles were an easy mix of Western and Indian aesthetics, and very very sexy.

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I loved how the styling with headscarfs were a tad Islamic, a tad sixties, and superbly sophisticated. When I look at shows for my research, the way ensembles are presented really tends to leave an impact on me. This is the reason why I always take a note of the details -- the shoes, the hair, the beauty looks. And charming the details were in this show, even if nothing extra-ordinary.

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These ensembles below brought back reminiscences of the nineties in me -- the halter necks, the sheer-bra layered combo, the ruffled hems.

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I am sorry about not getting a closer look at the ensems by skipping out on this show. But just like how I have said in numerous posts before, fuss-free always had a thumbs up from me. Until later darlings!

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Models J’adore


Of all the conventional entities that get their share of recognition and dues paid back in fashion, the models have forever and a day been the forerunners. Whether the retro dandies (twiggy), the original supermodels (Naomi and Cindy) from the nineties and It girls (the always tenacious Kate Moss), these bold and flamboyant starlets of fashion are indelible components of fashion now, then and to come. After the nineties the supermodel phenomenon gradually dialed down with relatively less ineffaceable faces.

The recent times have however seen some upsurge in the same. Natasha Poly, Karlie Kloss and off latest the very cheeky Cara Delevingne- reckoned to be the next Kate Moss in her social tendencies and runway presence alike- are some names that have managed to carry forth the legacy of the mighty supermodel.

So here we look at the most recent contenders for the next big thing to precede this charismatic lot. Faces that have we been seeing incessantly on the runways, on a rise in the sphere of advertising campaigns and that struck a convincing chord with our very own fashion scout instincts. Our favorite faces of spring summer 2014 and why they stand out for us:

·      Grace Mahary

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 o   Undoubtedly the most recurring face on the runways of spring summer 2014 all the way from New York through Paris. She walks like a fire and has got the face of a supermodel in the making.
·      Malaika Firth

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o   The first black model since 1994 to feature in a Prada Campaign (Fall 2013-14). If Cara be the next Kate, this Brit is deemed to be the next Naomi on the catwalks.
·      Sam Rollinson

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o   The tomboyish appeal- check, the sharp cheek bones- check and oh the luscious lips. A face that conspicuously shines through the lot.
·      Edie Campbell

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o   Although she's been around the block for a while, Edie has been a refreshing addition to the oddball lot of models. Wearing graffiti all over her body and arms lifted up at Marc Jacobs’ final show for Louis Vuitton (SS 2014) will be an image etched in the fashion for long.

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Edie Campbell for Louis Vuitton SS14

Monday, 21 October 2013

WIFW SS 2014: Gauri and Nainika Karan X Dolce & Gabbana???

Whilst I consider myself a huge Gauri & Nainika fan and I loved their SS14 collection at Wills India Fashion Week, I couldn't help but notice a strong resemblance to the Dolce & Gabbana SS13 collection. I wonder if D&G were used simply as a point of reference or was it just a strange coincidence that the head scarves, stripes and prints looked a lot like what we saw during the D&G SS 13 show.

Am I being cynical? Maybe you guys should look at the pictures and decide!

THE STRIPES
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Gauri & Nainika SS 14

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Dolce & Gabbana SS 13

THE PRINTS
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Gauri & Nainika SS14
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Dolce & Gabbana SS 13

Any thoughts?



Coffee Table Book Addiction - Dior Glamour By Mark Shaw

As I was sitting on my chaise lounge enjoying a lovely Delhi evening a few days ago, oohing and aahing over images from my Valentino coffee table book by Rizzoli Publications, I get an email from Dior pr informing me about their new coffee table book launch. Of course, being an avid fashion coffee table book collector I was immediately intrigued and had to know more.

Some of my fashion coffee table books

The book, Dior Glamour by Mark Shaw is not just A book, its a fairy tale. Featuring rare images by legendary photographer Mark Shaw, that have never been seen before as they were only recently discovered inside a secret vault in his estate, this book is a a masterpiece. Shaw was famous not only for photographing the Kennedy family album, but he also changed the face of fashion photography and was the first to photograph the Paris fashion scene in color.



As I go through some of the images from the book online, I am left awestruck and taken to somewhat of a fantasy land. Mark was given exclusive access into the couture house where he captured rare behind the scenes photographs during fittings and runway shows inside Dior's Grand Salon which are presented in the book. The volume also contains over 200 images featuring actresses, socialites and models in iconic Dior ballgowns, day suits and haute couture collections.

A Mark Shaw photograph from the book


If you want to see Monsieur Dior's "New Look" up close and personal, the stunning clothes from the most iconic Vivante (1953), H (1954) and Silhouette De Demain (1960) lines, it's all there in a book that gives a new meaning to the word beautiful. Releasing on the 29th October, I am definitely getting myself a copy and anyone who loves fashion history and photography should too.

A Mark Shaw photograph from the book

WIFW SS 14: Anupama Dayal and Masaba Gupta - Shows we love!

The much-awaited event kicked off this month in Delhi with shows by Anupama Dayal and Masaba Gupta on day one. Anupama's ensembles were a repertoire of dreamy colours that revisited the ever evolving floral-print trend. Oversized blooms and fancy creepers were seen in fun summery cuts in a palette ranging from hot pinks to oranges, to lime and ochre. Silhouettes had a very 'resortish' feel.

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Masaba Gupta too played her signature funky print forte to the hilt. Alia Bhatt walked the ramp for the designer -- in a pink and black dress -- with an interesting floral detail on the striped sleeves. The designer kept the palette of the collection within light pastels interspersed with bold black motifs. Sarong-like shift dresses, saris over loose fitted pants, midriff peeks, and sheer accents played a large role in the ensembles.

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Anupama's picture credits: BCCL 2013