Designer and High Street Collaborations - Yaay or Naay?

While checking out the much anticipated Isabel Marant for H&M collection, I got thinking about designer- high street collaborations and my stance on it.

One may at the risk of sounding slightly elitist assume that the whole point of designer wear is to be seen in one-of-a-kind creations -- to wear exquisite clothes with superb craftsmanship, luxuriant fabrics, and the “made in Italy” or “made in France” tag. Then come along these collaborations which of course are an excellent way to bridge the gap to masses. But what I don’t like in this phenomenon is that most of these designs in such arrangements are hand-me-downs from the label's previous collections. I would go as far as to say that these make me feel slightly cheated. 

Lanvin SS 2009

Lanvin for H&M

Lanvin SS 2008

Lanvin for H&M

Now it is given that this transcend comes with assembly-line construction methods, and more consumer-friendly fabrics. Trickling down designs in these unions is what I have a bit of an issue with. I think it’s unfair for the consumers who are expecting something new, something trendy from the designer. I know I would at least -- how great it would be to see new retail-oriented design innovations while maintaining the signature at the same time.

Maison Martin Margiela for H&M

Maison Martin Margiela SS 2011

From the designer’s perspective, it is a fantastic opportunity to create brand awareness and to reach out to a greater audience. Also, high street chains do end up copying runway designs to death every season. So by doing these collaborations, at least the designer gets their name stamped on it and they get their fair chunk of returns. Then maybe, this is a way to stay afloat as the big money always lies in numbers. From the consumer’s point of view, most people cannot afford to dish out a few thousand dollars or so for a Lanvin cocktail dress. For them, these collaborations are the ideal way to sport a high end designer’s label minus the steep price tag.

Maison Martin Margiela FW 2011

Maison Martin Margiela for H&M

Another thing I always wondered was how the customers who buy designer wear feel about these collaborations. Would a die-hard Versace ready-to-wear fan be okay to see Versace-labelled designs being sold at H&M after having spent so much money on the original designs? I save a decent amount of money every year to splurge on one or two handbags, so if I were to see one of them designed for a high street collaboration, I know I wouldn't be happy. 

Finally, what factors make a couture house such as Maison Martin Margiela to be a part of these associations? Being a couturier is in itself the epitome of being exclusive -- what about the mixed message it may send out, and brand value dilution? Again, I don’t mean to sound elitist in any way but this does strike some curiosity. Dior and Louis Vuitton don’t even go on sale (Dior used to though, but not anymore), hell neither Dior or Chanel even participate in e-commerce and that in some way is one of their USPs: to keep themselves completely away from the high street. 

I guess this post makes my take on the collaborations pretty evident but maybe that might change if designers started creating some new and original designs for the high street as opposed to recreating past collections with the odd tweak here and there.  Using older designs for a collaboration to me sends out the message "since you can't afford my original designs, here's a cheaper version of the real thing" which I feel is a little demeaning. If designers choose to associate with high street brands, it would be great if we see some super cool and unique stuff.