A part of the extremely discreet couture jewellery circuit of the Parisian, or rather world, luxe fashion scenario, Lorenz Bäumer’s creations break away from traditional takes of design to present a mélange of explosive patterns, spectacular gemstones, and pieces that speak out louder than words. A heady combination of feisty art revelations alongside an acquiring process that can be quite daunting except probably for ultra-luxe connoisseurs, a trinklet of Bäumer’s is essentially a collector’s item and a modern heirloom legacy. “Do not remove your jewels when you wash your hands; you may forget them,” he muses.
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| Designers Bruno Frisoni (R) and Lorenz Baumer at the 2012 Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize shortlist session |
Bäumer is also artistic director for Louis Vuitton Fine Jewellery, and he has previously overseen time and jewellery masterpieces for the houses of Chanel, Guerlain and Baccarat. A branch of his own eponymous salon is expanded this year at the very distinct and prestigious 19 Place Vendôme, Paris, marking another momentous milestone in his career as a fine jeweller. In addition, Bäumer has also been named Chevalier of Arts and Letters (a French order for signifi cant contribution arts) in 2004, admitted to the Comité Colbert, which is an association of 75 most important luxury French labels in 2009, and named Chevalier of the Légion d’Honneur, the highest decoration in France in 2010.
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| Bracelet by Laurenz Baumer |
Born in 1965 at Washington DC, USA, to a French mother and a German father, the very dashing Bäumer spent his initial years moving from country to country as his father was a diplomat whose job demanded many international postings. This upbringing, spanning the globe and soaking in the essence of each culture and region, laid the foundation for a strong artistic inclination in his later years when he pursued design. Bäumer went on to graduate in Innovation-Design-Production studies at Ecole Centrale de Paris in 1988. Design was an obvious choice for this now master jeweller, which he began by exploring the dimensions of silverware and furniture initially. Jewellery was where his passion found ardent direction towards achieving obsessive perfection. “Touch. Listen. Imagine. If she feels it, it is made for her,” he says summing up what defines perfection to him.
After this beginning, 1995 witnessed his full-glory entry to the fine jewellery scene bringing with him a refreshing change from the mundane, and daring escapades from convention. Opening showrooms at 4 Place Vendôme enveloped with an air of intimate privacy where appointments were something along the lines of a ritual, Bäumer’s jewellery had discerning takers asking for more. His modern designs that are a seductive analogy of daring and style have graced besides numerous jewellery enthusiasts and famous names, Charlene Wittstock, who donned a Bäumer tiara at the evening gala following her marriage to HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco. Bäumer is a true lover of art and indulges in the same as an incorrigible collector. Paintings, sculptures, photographs and collectible objects all surround his world lending, adding and infusing into his creativity that is clearly revealed in his creations. This art enthusiast even spends quite some of his free time exploring galleries, museums, antique stores and auction houses aiming to observe and understand his counterparts in the world of arts.
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| Laurenz Baumer Cocktail Rings |
This atypical path of approaching concepts allows him a degree of extensive freedom and innumerable sources of inspiration that take form as he ponders over what he has to make. Architecture, which has always been is evident when he subtly technology with design refusing to adhere trends or cardinal of jewellery-making. His extensive use of geometric shapes and clean lines bring together a very obvious contemporary approach at fi rst glance; then after, the soul and authenticity shines through carrying a unique meaning within. And out of his stunning pieces of art, it is his rings that mere words cannot define. The rings in the Bäumer collection each have their own identity if you put them all side by side – chaotic yet sublime, minimal yet grandiose, and exhaustive yet exclusive. “And the identity of a jewellery piece is in his wearer. Even if you are not wearing it, the piece should tell who it belongs to,” he has been quoted saying.
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| Laurenz Baumer Earrings |
As for designing for a particular kind of clientele, women who defi ne the very word elegance, who imbibe sophistication, and those who embrace emotion are his inspiration. Feeling the unique desire, individuality and dream of each woman, he creates a trinket that brings together and embodies each essence. It can be something as simple as an engagement ring with diamonds, a whimsical brooch christened Beetle, a bracelet shiningly revealed as Treasure Island. After taking the dais of one of the most influential jewellers in the present century, and over 6,000 masterpieces later, Bäumer at heart remains a searching wanderer. And he finds his solace in the vast seas. An avid surfer, he explores the most incredible locations across the world to unwind on the waves, which present a more intimate and confidential side to his persona. When he is at the seas, he finds his luxury… Freedom, space and time.
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