Wednesday, 16 July 2014

Dior FW 14 Haute Couture - Looking To The Past For The Future

Hello everyone! I am finally back from the dead. Okay not the dead but from my very lovely summer holiday in case you were wondering where I had disappeared off to. Anyways, its back to work now which means catching up on the Fall/Winter haute couture shows starting with Dior.

I thought after following Raf Simons for Dior so closely for the last few years, that I might have had him all figured out. You know, his minimalist aesthetic, his love for architecture and bright colours, etc. After I saw the FW 14 Haute Couture show, turns out, I hadn't had him all figured out.

The show theme was kind of like a quick presentation on fashion history. “I was interested in the process of finding something extremely modern, through something very historical; particularly through a juxtaposition of different themes,” explains Raf Simons in the press note. Divided into eight parts, the show started with Marie Antoinette style dresses, except they looked like what she may have worn in present day times. Most of them were worn with panniers, like Marie Antoinette's court dresses but these were modernised with pockets and tulle that was light and breathable.

Flight suit inspired silhouettes came next. Who would have thought that outfits worn by space goers would make their way into couture! The juxtaposition of feminine embroidery on silk against industrial-esque zippers on jumpsuits inspired by astronauts was a fine touch.  The silk dresses with zippers all the way down the front had a pretty clear message; that haute couture dresses need not take forever to wear. The Edwardian coats paired with contrasting trousers that followed were just breath-taking despite their simplicity. However, nothing could steal the limelight from the 18th century court jackets with the most exquisite embroidery on them paired with simple turtle necks and trousers. There was also a new, super cool version of the Bar jacket. This time collars were exaggerated and looked almost architectural with my favourite being the rounded collar as seen on Malaika Firth. The show closed with feminine, pleated silk dresses bringing technology and tradition together.

Historical references in ready to wear and haute couture are nothing new. But the way Raf re-interpreted it is very new. Whenever we think of 18th century inspirations, it is almost a reflex to assume the clothes will be big ball gowns filled with layers of tulle and heavy embroidery. However, not anymore. He has managed to make the past a lot less dramatic and a lot more suited to everyday life. “It was an idea of confronting what people now think is an aesthetic that is modern – it felt more modern to go to the far past, not the ‘modernised ‘look of the last decade. The challenge was to bring the attitude of contemporary reality to something very historical; bringing easiness to something that could be perceived as theatrical. It is the attitude that matters.” explains Raf in the press note. Once again, a fantastic delivery from one of the most important men in the fashion industry.

Click here to watch a video on the highlights of the show or click here to see the entire image gallery. In the meantime scroll down to enjoy some photos of my favourite looks along with a short video featuring the magnificent set.












Image Courtesy: Christian Dior

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